Well,

I dragged home the super cheap 153K DII...The "pig in the poke"..

I've spent the last few evenings going over it, studying the Rave (Impressive docs BTW)..I really like how these rigs are put together, and this one is so clean, it is really enjoyable to work on (aside from the contortions).

So, I found the motor has been over heated badly and needs repairs..Tomorrow I will have the heads off and will check for warpage and see the cylinder condition.


In the course of tearing it down today, this is what I have discovered thus far:

PAS leaks like a sieve, needs replaced

Radiator looks new

alternator looks new

AC compressor looks new,

fan clutch looks new

Trans fluid looks good

all electronics inside the cab work, stereo blows the doors off

sunroofs work

tv's work

got a few lamps on the dash, but I don't know all the functions yet, and having never had time actually driving it, have no clue what is correct or not.

Passenger side window regulator needs attention (window sticks at top of stroke)

Passenger side headlight is trashed, and front bumper mounts are in need of attention (I say rip it off and install a decent off road bumper)

The undercarriage is impressive, immaculate, super tight (bodes well for 153K!) this thing has never seen dirt.


The SLS has issues, compressor is no good. otherwise appears to be in tact (I managed to get air into the bags by splicing in my own shraders in such a way that I can operate this rig without the SLABS as long as the bags aren't ruptured)..I will likely ditch the SLS and install coils and a lift once I get the motor running and susc out the drive train.


So here is my big pondering:

Should I even bother to pull the heads and inspect this motor, or should I just drop in a good motor that has had its fundamental issues addressed?

On one hand, I MIGHT get by installing head gaskets and putting the existing mill back in service (with a limited life expectancy). Then I could susc out the rest of the rig under power.

On the other hand, I could save the 500+ it is going to cost me on the head gasket job and jump straight into a motor that is going to last a long time..assuming the rest of the rig is up to the task...I'm not too worried about the T-case since I plan to add CDL, and the trans doesn't scare me, but are there a bunch of other items I should be concerned with? I know the electronics on these rigs can be a nightmare, but this one is so clean and corrosion free that I doubt I will find a better one any time soon..

Sorry about the novel, I hope to hear all of your warnings, opinions, etc...

I would prefer a lower mileage unit, but really, if I invest in a good motor, isn't that going to give me piece of mind that the weakest link in these rigs is addressed?

Thanks

Mike

 

You need to check the front prop shaft to see if it is original if so replace it asap.
Problem with buying a used or "rebuilt" motor is if it does not come with warranty then you can't trust the work has been done correctly.
If you buy one that's been rebuilt proper then your going to pay a high tag for it.
Trans is solid if you don't poke a hole in it with prop shaft.
You have to weigh those options and go from there.

 

I failed to mention that the front prop shaft looks good, but I cannot tell if it has been replaced..there are no zircs though, so I assume it is stock.

As for motors, I am still researching, but so far, it sounds like a good "reman" motor with a 6 month warranty is about $3500 (and up) I am prepared to part with..I want a solid mill I can count on, and I have no issue paying for it. I have minimal interest in dropping in a used motor unless I am convinced it makes sense and has a fighting chance of survival.

thanks

Mike

 

The factory shaft has two zerks but none where they matter most. a factory shaft should be replaced.
if you have the cash to go that route then that's your best bet. If you want to put it in and not be under it every weekend that is. Do your research and let us know which one's you narrow it down to and let me know if I can help with the updated prop shaft!

 

The new fan clutch is also a tip off to previous overheat issues. You might replace HG only to find that cylinder liners have begun to slip (impact the fire ring of the HG). What ever engine you arrive at - use the 180F soft spring thermostat that drops the factory temps by 6-10F. Flush out coolant to remove Dexcool and go back with green.

 

Oh yeah, the coolant was a bit nasty...while radiator looks new even, the coolant that had settled in the bottom looked like chocolate milk...

getting ready to pull the intake and heads this am..I should know a lot more in a few hours..

 

What year did you end up getting anyway?

 

It is a 2003..

I was in the market for a D1, but this popped up not running for really cheap so I decided to drag it home and susc it out. Right now I'm in it for $400 and some hours of my time.. I realize I could end up with $5~6K into it in short order, and that doesn't bother me. If I hit 10K that bothers me some, but if I end up with a great rig that I know inside out, I don't mind too much. I don't think these vehicles are smart investments by any stretch.

Up until I drop coin I'm not committed to it, once I pony up for a motor, I'll be living with it for many years..

Luckily I enjoy wrenching and these rigs are nicely built IMO.

 

The Front most u joint has a single zirc in the body. The rear cv or double Cardan has no zircs. Looks new though. It it the rear that blows up I take it. I'm guessing a good drive axle shop can fix it up nice for about 3 bills with premium parts?

 

Its the front that fails and that is what you have. A new aftermarket is $300 shipped to your door fully serviceable and a slip yoke! You have a factory in front now, so that is a big risk. Sounds like your going the best route with the motor and personally I like to wrench on these trucks also. They are easy to work on and have great character too.