Now that the CDL is working and shifting as it should again (Thanks in part to forum members) now I can focus on updating the cooling system. Next pay period Im going to order a new Proline radiator and all new cooling system hoses and clamps. I intend to read the rave and browse the web for useful info. But wanted to check in to see if you guys had anything to add thats not in the rave. Any other parts I may want to consider replacing while im down there? I already have the 180 degree thermostat installed and the water pump was replaced a couple years ago by previous owner.

Also I do not have a water hose setup at my apartment so I cannot hose out the cooling system. Does the system even need to be hosed out since the hoses will be replaced as with the radiator? If so what are some alternative solutions to flushing out the system without a hose hookup?

Thanks in advance.

PS: If there are any known how to videos for doing this job please link them as I learn best via visual demonstrations.

 

I would loo at replacing your throttle body heater plate. as for the flush you should not fush with the radiator hose. you can do a drain, fill with distilled water run engine to temp, drain refill repeat. I would do that once or twice, maybe even a third time depending on how long it has been since you flushed the system. Some will say this is a waste of time. but think of it this way. You are spending how much on replacing everything why not flush in a way that does add minerals and contaminants that will cling to small surfaces.

 

Thank you! I will try the distilled water method!

 

I did this 5-7 times to get rid of my orange dex-cool. When coolant is finally clear, replace your radiator and etc...then add your straight green anti-freeze and test.

Im not sure if your throttle body heater plate is leaking, but I would just by pass it with 5/16" fuel hose...Unless you live in Antarctica?

 

Just put a Nissans Radiator in from rockauto.com
Total cost less then $250.

Put in a Hayden HD fan clutch from eBay.
cost $70 or so.

most important - the Land Rover grey 180 degree soft spring thermostat.
Never the Motorad. Never.

 

What is wrong with the Motorad T-stat? I have one as a backup.

 

I have one myself, I just monitor my Ultragauge water temps...been fine, rig runs much cooler than the factory original one I had before. There has been a lot of issues with the Motorad T-stat though... Im not going to spend 70 bucks on the genuine rover grey stat unless I need it. MO

 

x2 on the Nissen radiator, got mine from partsgeeks. nothing wrong with RockAuto, they were out when I ordered mine.
x2 on the Hayden HD fan clutch, got mine from Amazon.
x2 on the LR 180 gray thermo, has worked well. have not owned a Motorad, cannot compare.
also check overflow bottle and cap, and replace the plastic screw in the "T" with a brass one.

 

The 2 screws in the top of the radiator that hold the fan shroud on are a very common place that the radiator leaks because the screws get over tightened and puncture the radiator. One of the Rover mechanics at British4x4 in SA told me to use a few washers on each screw so it doesn't screw in so far and won't puncture the radiator. I try and pass that info on as much as possible.

I think some people use a different replacement bolt when they reinstall, but I don't know the size off the top of my head. And I've also heard some guys just leave the screws out all together and use zip ties or something else to secure it. Which ever way you decide to go, the point is to take extra care with those 2 screws and don't over tighten or cross thread them or you could ruin your new radiator.

 

Do you have a part# for the fan clutch?