No grease nipples on 04 D2 driveshafts -- is this correct?
#1
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Per the maintenance section of the Workshop Manual (section 10 page 20), I went to grease the driveshafts of my son's D2 before he took off for a ski trip to Colorado. (also changed oil to a Rotella 15-40 and 10-30 blend: two-thirds 15-40, one-third 10-30 for the colder weather, plus a WIX 51515 oversized filter)
The RAVE shows 3 or 4 grease nipples (including one that is installed then removed after greasing on what I will call the slip joint) on the u-joints and slip joint of the front and rear driveshafts (propeller shafts), however I looked and looked and couldn't find any nipples or plugged holes.
Is it possible that our D2 has sealed u-joints and that the slip joints (if that's what you call them) on the shafts don't have grease ports any either but rather are all permanently sealed?
The RAVE shows 3 or 4 grease nipples (including one that is installed then removed after greasing on what I will call the slip joint) on the u-joints and slip joint of the front and rear driveshafts (propeller shafts), however I looked and looked and couldn't find any nipples or plugged holes.
Is it possible that our D2 has sealed u-joints and that the slip joints (if that's what you call them) on the shafts don't have grease ports any either but rather are all permanently sealed?
#2
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Rear driveshaft will have one for U-joint & one for slip joint,
Front (if stock) also will have one for front single u-joint & one for slip joint, & none for double u-joints & centering ball, (this is the end that connects to transfer box),
It's best to either rebuild front shaft with greaseable u-joints & centering ball, or just replace the whole driveshaft with a serviceable one if you don't want to have problem of driveshaft failing & damaging transmission,
(Most ppl here already have taken care of that as a prevention measure)
Front (if stock) also will have one for front single u-joint & one for slip joint, & none for double u-joints & centering ball, (this is the end that connects to transfer box),
It's best to either rebuild front shaft with greaseable u-joints & centering ball, or just replace the whole driveshaft with a serviceable one if you don't want to have problem of driveshaft failing & damaging transmission,
(Most ppl here already have taken care of that as a prevention measure)
Last edited by Bom2oo2; 03-17-2016 at 01:16 PM.
#3
#5
#6
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so klar wie kloßbrühe (as clear as dumpling water).
Looks like I could have either original or replacement shafts.
I have all (and I mean all) the records from the previous owner, so I'll go thru them and see if the shafts were replaced at any time.
It has 131,000 miles on it. Am I on borrowed time if they are original?
In any case, it sounds like I should rebuild or replace them with u-joints that are not sealed but rather have grease fittings, right?
Looks like I could have either original or replacement shafts.
I have all (and I mean all) the records from the previous owner, so I'll go thru them and see if the shafts were replaced at any time.
It has 131,000 miles on it. Am I on borrowed time if they are original?
In any case, it sounds like I should rebuild or replace them with u-joints that are not sealed but rather have grease fittings, right?
#7
#8
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The drive shaft often goes without warning. If you're lucky, you might get some squeaks before it goes but usually you don't. If I were you, I would replace it with Lucky8's front shaft. It is under $250 from what I remember and even cheaper for forum members. Rebuilding the shaft is also an option, but it takes more time and specialty tools (u-joint tool specifically). Then you have to get it balanced after you rebuild it. Drive shaft replacement is easy. It is 4 bolts per side and that's it.
#9
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