I would like to convert over to an LED set-up on my Disco2, with LED rears like the LR3 and headlights as well... I like the look but can't find anything..
I don't like the sissy look of the LR3 but I do like the LEDs.
Is there anyone out there who makes these?

 

LED tail lamps suck, they dont get hot and the lenses get covered in snow and block them out.
Regular bulbs get hot and melt the snow off of the lenses.
Plus putting LED's into a non LED housing will not disperse the light correctly.

 

There are LED retrofits that are quality and have the appropriate light pattern, but you're going to pay for them. The cheap **** bulbs aren't bright enough, and light dispersal is crap.

So far I've done the dome lights, glove box, license plate illumination, city lights, and reverse lights, and I'm $150 in. I still have the tail, brake and side marker repeaters to go.

The reverse modules I used are $35 each. You get what you pay for, and exterior lighting isn't something I'm too keen on skimping on.

And until I can find an electronically timed flasher rather than a load timed flasher, I might not be able to convert the turn signals.

City Lights:


Dome Lights:


Reverse Lights:

 

Racer where did you get the plate light?

 

The license plate light bulbs are Sylvania LEDriving series LED's, which are rebranded Osram bulbs. The bulbs still have Osram laser etched into the base.

If you luck out, you can find them at Autozone, part number 6418LED, but I haven't seen them at my local store in weeks. Your next bet would be to buy the Osram version from motive mods (link: http://www.motivemods.com/OSRAM-LEDriving-s/459.htm ), but they're $6 more per bulb there than at AutoZone. The Osram PN is C5W6K for the 6000K bulb.

And contrary to what Motive states on their website, manufacturing for all of these bulbs has since been moved to China, they're no longer manufactured in Germany.

 

I'm pretty sure Cobb is looking for lamp fixtures not just the bulbs. Properly designed, LED's illuminate superior brake lamps. They light faster. By some calculations, 6 feet earlier at 60mph. The incandescent filament takes a while to heat up before it glows.

21W incandescents do not melt much snow or ice, but the point light source of the single filament is easier to cover with snow, ice or mud than a larger array of diodes.

For the OP, though I don't think you were considering it, I can assure you the LED conversion bulbs are only about a tenth as bright as the incandescent bulbs in the stock lamps. They are not even half as bright. At best, the on-axis brightness of a big-brand "360 degree" multi-LED bulb is a little brighter than the 5W incandescent tail-light even when it is fully illuminated. We're talking 40 lumens compared to stock 400 lumens (3CP versus 32CP).

I converted everything to LED except the headlights (plain old long-life 9003/H4), reverse and rear fog lights. In the rear, there are no LED's that will fit in there that will produce 566 lumens each like the stock wattage incandescent bulbs I used, but if there's a source, I'd like to know about it.

There is a Lucas flasher that will time the turn signals correctly. If you watch LED turn signals versus incandescent you can see the difference in how fast each illuminates. Of course this has no advantage for turn signals.

Having done the bulb conversion, I'm just offering my advice based on the results. The interior and license plate lights work good and don't even cost that much. I'd forget the other stuff until there's something better available for Ba9s. The current SMD technology just doesn't work that well in a globule like that. Maybe OLED's in another few years.

 

For the license plate light, use this:
You can get two of them for $0.34 + $4.42 shipping and they work great, brighter than stock and a higher color temperature.

For the dome lights, use the ones with the festoon insert and a wire to a larger array of SMD's on a circuit board. You can get 16 diodes instead of just just six. They run less than 10 bucks.

I bought some expensive LED's too. The cheap ones I suggest here are a far better value.

 

This is the type of thing you want for the dome lights:
I paid over $20 for high-end diodes of fewer number, but this panel of 48 cheap diodes would be brighter. I'm not sure on the exact size of the panel, but there's all kinds of panels like this with 12, 16, 32, 48 SMD's and one of them will fit in each of the two different size dome lights

Here's a nice panel of the larger 5050 SMD's:

 

This is the reverse module I'm using:


14W total power draw, and light distribution is as good as the stock incandescent bulb, only brighter. The aluminum casing the LED's are mounted in acts as a heat sink to ensure the LED's don't experience premature failure due to overheating.

On the inexpensive festoon modules you posted up about... they will fail. No disrespect, but they have no real voltage regulation to speak of, and no thermal management for the diodes, both of which lead to premature failure. I've been messing with LED retrofits since the early 2000's, I've seen the solutions out there only get better and better, with the Osram modules being the first real leap lately, with regard to optical performance of the diffuse lens they use.

Everyone is free to choose how they decide to go, but I'm more of a one and done sort of person, rather than to have to go back in again and again to replace bulbs because of failure or under-performance. I've done the cheap bulb route, and I'm done with the cheap bulb route for the reasons I mentioned.

And I'm especially done with Superbrightleds.com , their module failure rate was atrocious. Among the worst in the market AFAIC.

 

Actually they do, the tail lamps being on heat the lens and melt the snow.
If your tail lamp is covered in snow and you then turn the lights on its not going to melt the snow right away, they need to be on long enough to heat the lens.