No oil pressure after engine swap and what I have tried so far
#51
Yep I second using your oil pump gears & having them credit you for the front cover. They probably never ran it after they swapped the front cover if I had to guess as it was more than likely already pulled from the D2/P38 it came from.
It looked clean inside overall vs the hunk of junk in the pickup tube. If you have the oil pan still off I would check a lower bearing. If not fire it up, you’ll know pretty quick what you’ve got to work with.
It looked clean inside overall vs the hunk of junk in the pickup tube. If you have the oil pan still off I would check a lower bearing. If not fire it up, you’ll know pretty quick what you’ve got to work with.
Last edited by Best4x4; 10-16-2018 at 11:52 AM.
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If this engine was ran before removal and shipped...l'd assume it would be fine (bearing wise). There would still be oil in the bearing surface, passageways, journals and just the momentum of the spinning crank and gravity would sling some oil in the bearings. And, if it was only ran for a minute or so at idle...again...it should be fine (as long as the bearings were good to begin with). But, since the oil pan has to come back off...just check one. If good, reassemble and torque to spec. If not...we have another stumbling block.
Brian.
Brian.
#59
[QUOTE=MtnCrk;666146]
My 12v Milwaukee ratchet has gotten a workout.
My most go-to tool. That thing is a beast. It's ridiculous how long one battery charge lasts. Bought a spare battery and think the only time I actually used it was when doing a HG job. Won't do lug or axle nuts, but pretty much everything else.
My 12v Milwaukee ratchet has gotten a workout.
My most go-to tool. That thing is a beast. It's ridiculous how long one battery charge lasts. Bought a spare battery and think the only time I actually used it was when doing a HG job. Won't do lug or axle nuts, but pretty much everything else.
#60