Ok, here's the deal. I have replaced my water pump and oil pump gears. I reinstalled all the parts yesterday, and today, refilled all the fluids. Cranked her up to drive, and my oil pressure indicator stays on. This was the second cranking after reassembly, as I ran her for about ten minutes while refilling and bleeding the coolant. I am almost positive I installed everything correctly, and I can't imagine what the problem is now. Please help me. My wife and I have been getting by with one car because she's not working right now, but this can't go on forever.

 

Did you have oil PSI on the first run?
Did you prime the oil pump after you put it back together?

 

Honestly, I didn't check on the first run, but I didn't notice any lights on the dash starting or turning it off. I'm not sure what you mean about priming exactly, but I did remove a plug from the side of the pump body just below the sensor and pump in some oil so that it wouldn't be dry when I started it. ?

 

What you need to do to prime a oil pump is when you install a brand new one you coat it (the gears and such)with grease, when you start the engine the oil sticks to the grease and then the oil pump fills with oil and you are good to go.
That is the way they do it when the rebuild engines.

The way to do it now, which is the same way you would do it if you lost your prime when you were changing the oil is you take a oil can like one of these.
http://www.dutton-lainson.com/products.php?cat=53
With it full of motor oil you remove the oil filter, stick the nozzle into the big hole and pump it full of oil, then reinstall your oil filter and then start the engine.

As for what I mean by priming the pump, have you ever used the old fashioned hand pumps for pumping water out of the ground?
http://www.survivalunlimited.com/waterpumps.htm
The kind that your grandparents used or if you are like me the kind that you had on the farm and the hunting cabin, remember how you had to dump a gallon of water down the pump before it would pump water out of the ground?
Thats the same basic principal that you are trying to do with the oil pump.

 

Ok, well I'm officially stupid then. The gears were coated with grease out of the box, but I thought that was just an anti-corrosion packing type grease, so I wiped it all off real good. I did use a pump type oiling can to insert into the hole I mentioned before which drops right down on top of the oil filter. Will the pump still work since I wiped that grease off?

 

You need to get the oil inside of the pump and the only way to do that is to remove the oil filter and squirt the oil directly into the pump.
You can reuse your filter, just make sure it is full of oil when you put it back on and that the gasket is still clean and coated with oil.

 

Update! Well, turns out, it was just a sensor. After pulling the oil filter, I discovered that the plug I mentioned before does essentially the same thing that you were talking about Spike as the opening created by removing it drops right down on top of the outer part of the oil filter, so I did prime the pump after all. I started wondering about my sensor because I dropped it at some point during the reassembly process, and except for wiping the grease off, I was positive I reassembled everything correctly. So the Rover is back on the road. Only problem now is after I took her for a shake down run, came back to the house, parked her for about 10 minutes, and when I started her up again, she threw a code. The code reads as P0130, which is "bank 1 o2 sensor malfunction" if I remember correctly.

 

Don't you love these trucks they keep you busy. Time for new O2 sensors then. What's your mileage again?

 

I'm at 118k+, but no, it is not time for new o2's as I just replaced all four earlier this year. Is there a way to test one sensor and make sure it's working right? Guess I could just swap the front two and see if the problem moves. That would tend to indicate a problem. Funny thing is, it will go away after a couple of days, and then not come back for a long time. It's done this several times since I've had it. I really need to just get off my cheap *** and buy a code reader so I can read and clear them myself.

 

Look up on e-bay "Mechanic Doctor", that is where I bought my scanner from and it reads live data including your O2's.
It could be as simple as a bad connection on that O2, but with the scanner reading your O2's you will beable to see if that is the case or not I would think.