No power at fuel pump after steering wheel removal.
Background:
I have an original 95k mile 2004 Disco II with 4.6 SAI motor. I purchased this Disco as a project because it had low miles and the exterior/interior were in great condition. I was told by the previous owner that the motor was shot and didn't have compression in a few of the cylinders. Upon initial inspection I found a cross threaded spark plug, two broken spark plugs and random different ignition wires so I didn't have much faith in the diagnosis. Well... it ended up having a broken cam shaft...In two places....Decided I was going to tear the motor out and see if it was worth trying to save. It took me about a year to get around to it but I finally got the motor out and tore it down to just the block. The only thing I could see wrong was the broken cam shaft and two cam bearing that had slipped. The odd thing was that the two cam bearing that slipped wear jig saw type bearings and not solid bearing like the other three and like what was installed at the factory. So, at one point someone had been in the motor and replaced the two bearing that had slipped with the incorrect bearing. I took it to a trusted machine shop and had him check the block, sleeves, pistons and cylinder heads. While he had it, I had him deck the heads, polish the crank, lap the valves, install new valve springs and seats. Lastly he checked the cam bearing tolerances in the block and installed new cam bearing with the upgraded front bearing. Once I got the motor back I rebuilt everything. New crank and rod bearing, pistons and rings, a new stock cam, all new seals and gaskets...etc. The motor is completely rebuilt and everything is new. Put the motor back in the Disco, started it up and broke the cam in properly then drove it for about 35 miles with zero codes and issues. To say the least I was happy that it did not have any issues besides the motor.
Fast forward to today... I was replacing the steering wheel because the leather was ripping from sitting in the sun and I had replaced it with a new one while it was sitting but I was off by a couple splines so while I was test driving it, the steering wheel was turned a little. I started the Disco just fine and it was running perfectly. I removed the air bag and loosened the nut holding the steering wheel on. I pulled the Disco out of the shop and drove it slowly through the lot to make sure the wheels where tracking straight before I removed the steering wheel and corrected the placement. Once the wheels were tracking straight I pulled the steering wheel off with the horn and air bag wires disconnected. As I was placing the wheel in the correct position, the rotary coupler broke a tab and it seemed like the Disco cut out after that. I tried to restart it and it seemed like there was a fuel issue.. I do not know if there is a safety feature that cuts the fuel off when the rotary coupler is broken or if he wheel is removed. I replaced the rotary coupler with a 04 coupler from my parts car and still a no go. Tested the inertia switch and it was not popped up but I pushed it anyways and disconnected it (which caused all of my flashers to come on like it should), plugged it back in and still nothing. I towed the Disco back into the shop and tore all the stuff out of the back and tested the fuel pump. No power coming in. I connected a positive and negative wire to the fuel pump and it started running, so I know the fuel pump is not the issue. Tested the fuel replay under the hood, and replaced it with a spare relay, no change. Replaced the crank shaft sensor just because I know these go out with no warning, no change. I plugged in my code reader and no current codes. Mislfire and fuel pending which I would attribute to the lack of fuel being delivered to the system while I am trying to crank it over.
I do not know what else I can do. What switches or replays can be affected by the rotary coupler or removing the steering wheel? Is there a safety feature that would cut the fuel off? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I ran out of time today but don't know where to start next weekend. Thanks in advance
I have an original 95k mile 2004 Disco II with 4.6 SAI motor. I purchased this Disco as a project because it had low miles and the exterior/interior were in great condition. I was told by the previous owner that the motor was shot and didn't have compression in a few of the cylinders. Upon initial inspection I found a cross threaded spark plug, two broken spark plugs and random different ignition wires so I didn't have much faith in the diagnosis. Well... it ended up having a broken cam shaft...In two places....Decided I was going to tear the motor out and see if it was worth trying to save. It took me about a year to get around to it but I finally got the motor out and tore it down to just the block. The only thing I could see wrong was the broken cam shaft and two cam bearing that had slipped. The odd thing was that the two cam bearing that slipped wear jig saw type bearings and not solid bearing like the other three and like what was installed at the factory. So, at one point someone had been in the motor and replaced the two bearing that had slipped with the incorrect bearing. I took it to a trusted machine shop and had him check the block, sleeves, pistons and cylinder heads. While he had it, I had him deck the heads, polish the crank, lap the valves, install new valve springs and seats. Lastly he checked the cam bearing tolerances in the block and installed new cam bearing with the upgraded front bearing. Once I got the motor back I rebuilt everything. New crank and rod bearing, pistons and rings, a new stock cam, all new seals and gaskets...etc. The motor is completely rebuilt and everything is new. Put the motor back in the Disco, started it up and broke the cam in properly then drove it for about 35 miles with zero codes and issues. To say the least I was happy that it did not have any issues besides the motor.
Fast forward to today... I was replacing the steering wheel because the leather was ripping from sitting in the sun and I had replaced it with a new one while it was sitting but I was off by a couple splines so while I was test driving it, the steering wheel was turned a little. I started the Disco just fine and it was running perfectly. I removed the air bag and loosened the nut holding the steering wheel on. I pulled the Disco out of the shop and drove it slowly through the lot to make sure the wheels where tracking straight before I removed the steering wheel and corrected the placement. Once the wheels were tracking straight I pulled the steering wheel off with the horn and air bag wires disconnected. As I was placing the wheel in the correct position, the rotary coupler broke a tab and it seemed like the Disco cut out after that. I tried to restart it and it seemed like there was a fuel issue.. I do not know if there is a safety feature that cuts the fuel off when the rotary coupler is broken or if he wheel is removed. I replaced the rotary coupler with a 04 coupler from my parts car and still a no go. Tested the inertia switch and it was not popped up but I pushed it anyways and disconnected it (which caused all of my flashers to come on like it should), plugged it back in and still nothing. I towed the Disco back into the shop and tore all the stuff out of the back and tested the fuel pump. No power coming in. I connected a positive and negative wire to the fuel pump and it started running, so I know the fuel pump is not the issue. Tested the fuel replay under the hood, and replaced it with a spare relay, no change. Replaced the crank shaft sensor just because I know these go out with no warning, no change. I plugged in my code reader and no current codes. Mislfire and fuel pending which I would attribute to the lack of fuel being delivered to the system while I am trying to crank it over.
I do not know what else I can do. What switches or replays can be affected by the rotary coupler or removing the steering wheel? Is there a safety feature that would cut the fuel off? Any help would be greatly appreciated. I ran out of time today but don't know where to start next weekend. Thanks in advance
I only have one key to this car and unfortunately the key fob doesn’t work. I will try unlocking using the door handle and see if that helps tomorrow. Thanks for the feedback, anything helps!
I went and locked and unlocked the car using the key and door handle. Still a no go. The red indicator is not flashing like it would be if it was a lock out issue or the inertia switch was popped. Any other ideas? Or does anyone know a good scanner that I could look at the ecu programming and see what safety feature is activated? I have looked at the Hawkeye, nanocom, icarsoft... but I can’t find a definitive answer if I can read the ecu or bcu and find the problem and reset it. Anyone know?
CollieRover-
Not sure I understand what my ignition switch would have to do with my fuel pump turning on? The truck turns on and in the second position all the fuses are getting power as they should. It cranks but will not fire. The only thing that is not getting power is the fuel pump. I didn’t think the fuel pump gets power directly from the ignition switch? I thought the ignition switch told the relay to provide power to the fuse boxes and the relays/ fuses control power from there. Do you know something I don’t? ( that is a serious question not being an a$$). Thanks in advance.
Not sure I understand what my ignition switch would have to do with my fuel pump turning on? The truck turns on and in the second position all the fuses are getting power as they should. It cranks but will not fire. The only thing that is not getting power is the fuel pump. I didn’t think the fuel pump gets power directly from the ignition switch? I thought the ignition switch told the relay to provide power to the fuse boxes and the relays/ fuses control power from there. Do you know something I don’t? ( that is a serious question not being an a$$). Thanks in advance.
The power for the fuel pump comes right off fuse 10, to the relay, then straight to the fuel pump through the body harness. the only connection in line is right outside the fuel pump, and then at a splic A4 which is not located in RAVE
Are you getting power out of the relay? Is it activating? If it is, then you have a wire break somewhere along the line(if there truly is no power at the pump)
If the relay is not activating, it is either an ECM issue as it is the ground control for the relay activation, or an ignition switch issue
CollieRover-
Not sure I understand what my ignition switch would have to do with my fuel pump turning on? The truck turns on and in the second position all the fuses are getting power as they should. It cranks but will not fire. The only thing that is not getting power is the fuel pump. I didn’t think the fuel pump gets power directly from the ignition switch? I thought the ignition switch told the relay to provide power to the fuse boxes and the relays/ fuses control power from there. Do you know something I don’t? ( that is a serious question not being an a$$). Thanks in advance.
Not sure I understand what my ignition switch would have to do with my fuel pump turning on? The truck turns on and in the second position all the fuses are getting power as they should. It cranks but will not fire. The only thing that is not getting power is the fuel pump. I didn’t think the fuel pump gets power directly from the ignition switch? I thought the ignition switch told the relay to provide power to the fuse boxes and the relays/ fuses control power from there. Do you know something I don’t? ( that is a serious question not being an a$$). Thanks in advance.
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
Mustang196718
General Tech Help
4
Mar 17, 2016 09:32 AM
ImQuattro
Discovery II
17
Apr 3, 2014 09:17 PM



