So I got my new seal kit in from British and did the Reservoir full re-do. It was leaking bad and got worse sitting all winter while I re-did the tranny and t-case.
While I had the reservoir out I decided to run in and read the ABS module fix since I had the 3 amigos come and go since I bought this used beater a year or so ago. Relatively easy to take out and pull apart. I ran the 3 test for ohms at the svs circuit board and all showed 100% working mode. 3.1,2.1 and 1.1 ohms. I thought ok no need to do the mod and put it all back together . Must be something else in the abs system. Up getting it all back together I had my son pump the brakes and I started the bleeding procedure. However I could not get fluid to come out of the front abs line on the side of the module??? I thought I had done something wrong and pulled apart the servo and went through the whole procedure again . I originally thought that I had the metal washer in wrong that fits under the yellow plastic cap since I was not getting pressure and the squarish grommet was leaking from the tube coming from the back of the servo??? not sure what happened? any clues?
Thanks!

 

ok so went back out and went through everything again. still I get no pressure build-up except for the front line ( lower front of car line) on abs modulator. nothing out of the lower engine comp side line, very little out of any caliper and very little out of top four lines on modulator. everything worked fine before the new seals and abs inspection. I see pressure coming in the reservoir when the brakes are pumped so Kinda stumped here???? followed all the threads on bleeding the modulator and the Rave on full brake bleed but still nothing. What am I missing here???
Thanks as I/m sitting here stumped!

 

I don't have an answer for you, but the same thing happened when I helped a friend with his master cylinder around a year ago. We too were stumped, but we let it sit "a few days," tried it again and everything worked fine. Perhaps it's has something to do with air movement through the system, I don't know.

 

ok yea wacky.....I just read the abs manual bleed again for the 10th time and I/m doing it by the book. Maybe I'll try the gravity bleed next but damn I want to get the brake fluid cleaned up before it erodes the Rover away ( which many not be a bad thing) . Did you do the master seal rebuild with the kit from British?
**The two grommets, the new yellow cap and seals under the yellow cap?
I had a bad leak for months so after re-doing a bad tranny and t-case I thought this was like changing a light bulb ; but I guess not

 

And another thing, it's great that your tests on the shuttle valve switch showed it was good, but that's not where the real problem lies. The Option B bypass is designed to bypass a faulty circuit board in the unit, not the switches themselves. So if you are still getting the three amigos and the codes from your ABS Amigo or other device point to the switches you should go back in and perform the bypass Josh came up with.

 

ok, I got ya. I honestly did not do a whole lot of reading on the ABS fix. It was there for the taking out when I had the res out and thought why the hell not poke around and take it out ? It only took less than an hour to take out, test and put back in. I did not see any corrosion around the pins and they were certainly not lose so I didn't even bother with the re-solder method (which If I'm understanding you correctly would not work if the board was bad anyway) ? I'll do the by-pass once I figure out where my brake pressure issue is and then I'll take it out again. Thanks for the Tip!

 

Can anyone tell me if you pump the brakes will you get pressure out of both lines connected to the master cylinder? line towards the front of master has pressure and will bleed at that junction and at the abs unit (again abs line to front of vehicle).
The inner line has no pressure, has no fluid and has no fluid or pressure at the abs unit ???
Trying to understand what happened to my brakes on a simple master cylinder kit rebuild as stated above. Pulled up many diagrams to see how the cylinder works and it appears that the fluid comes into the servo via the inner square grommet tube to the back of the master then pumped back through the lower half of the master and out the two lines to the abs unit. PLEASE someone correct me if I'm wrong here. If there is pressure and fluid to the back of the master (end of the cylinder to the second line) how could there be no pressure and no fluid on the front half of the master ? Keep in mind the master only had leaky Grommets but worked perfectly. Now that I replaced the seals and the Grommets I can not bleed the system.

 

I would see if you can get brake fluid pumping out the bleeds at the wheels.
Probably air in the ABS.

I read you need to actively RUN the abs to get it to bleed.

Maybe go to low range and go to hill decent - in a place where you can use the hand brake to stop.

Or else you need a test book I think to active the ABS bleed procedure.

I am the weakest member on here with brakes. I am just regurgitating what I have read from others over the years.

 

Yea IDk I/m stumped silty on this. I drained the master reservoir again and pulled it out to see if it was clogged or something. It was not so I had a helper pump the brakes to see what the 2 grommet holes do and they both seem to have a sucking force as well as the inner exit line. If that's the case I should be able to put air pressure in the system and then bleed it but no matter how many times I have someone pump the brakes I.m only getting a little pressure at all wheels and abs lines. a few days ago I pulled off the res. just to check the grommets before I ordered the kit and saw that they were brittle as could be. I put the tank back on to the old and crappy grommets and a few pumps at the wheel gave me instant brake pressure. It leaked but I had plenty of brake. Now I have it all rebuilt and NADA

 

You can bleed the brakes with the Autocom.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...-vmware-64725/

Cost you under $100.00 usually.