My engine was cutting off after getting hot so I read up on here about replacing the crank position sensor. After replacing that it worked but then it started jerking around, sputtering and going into limp mode. At first it would start right back up and I had codes checked and had a code for O2 sensor and crank position sensor (I had not had the CPS code cleared after replacing yet) so I replaced the O2 sensor and took a look at the ECU (per advice on another post). After the O2 sensor was replace it seemed to run smooth again, so I cleared the codes and took it for a drive. Ten minutes later it stalled and wouldn't start and I had the code for the CPS again. I figured the new sensor may be defective so I returned it under warrantee and picked up a new one. Now I just installed that one and it won't start at all. I have the CPS, then spacer, then nut just like before, and took it back out and back on again just incase it was slightly positioned wrong or something. Now I'm stumped.

 

"CPS, then spacer, then nut" is the correct order.
have you checked it for fuel any of these times?

 

It has fuel and was running two hours ago (until I just switched out the CPS again) just shutting down again once hot. The first CPS I put in was Bosch, but the one they just gave me as a replacement has no writing on it and they just gave it to me in a plastic bag. I'm wondering if it could be defective since it does nothing now, but find it kinda hard to believe I would get two defective ones in a row. One that still shuts it down when hot, then one that doesn't let it fire at all. :/

 

counting the original CPS that would be three, so i think you can safely rule that out.

when it dies have you checked it for fuel and spark? basically you need three things to run fuel, spark and air. you're typing so I guess we can rule out air.

have you checked the pressure at the fuel rail and have you pulled a plug and checked for spark?

 

No spark

 

No spark is a classic CPS symptom. The one thing I would say is clean the hell out of the CPS connector with brake cleaner to get any oil out of it.

If still no-go, you need to assume it's a ignition system problem and start checking for power and ground going to the coils.

 

I'm about to just through the damn thing on craigslist and be done with it. 2002, only 85,000 miles, pissing me off, make me an offer! lol. I did think about it being the connection, it does leak oil so it's pretty nasty around there. It's pouring down rain here now so I'll try that tomorrow. Thanks!

 

Join Date: Nov 2011
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Through trial an error, I installed the crankshaft position sensor on my Disco SE Series. I accessed the connection from the top. You need small to medium hands because the harness to the connector is very short. It's impossible to get two hands between the firewall and the engine. I used a hook made from a hanger to grab and hold the harness to disconnect and to reconnect the sensor

My DISCO front pipes left and right are one unit. So, even though I disconnected the driver side pipe where the sensor is located, there was not enough flex to drop the pipe from its bolt. To complete the uninstall and reinstall I had to use a low profile ratchet, and tweezers to remove and replace the spacers. For the top bolt on the mud guard, I had to use a screw driver on the end of the 7mm socket because the bolt was not reachable to hand tighten before using the ratchet.

All toll, it took me 4 hours to complete the job. If I have to do it again, I now know how to approach it. It should be a one hour job at best.

My DISCO starts every time with no stalls so far. I have also noticed that the engine runs a little smoother.

Tony