no start m and s lights flash good spark, starting fluid wont even fire
#12
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Update. I took the plenum off to check fuel pressure. As i was cranking with an open intake the engine started. Seemed like it must have been flooded from all the cranking trying to solve the previous problems. I had good fuel pressure. 50psi. Good injector pulse too, so I put it back together. It started fine and ran well. I cleared out all the codes and drove it a bit. M and s light went out and she drove perfectly. So today I drove it on an 80 mile round trip. Ran great but I began noticing that on warm starts it started immediately but i detected roughness upon start up. Eventually the service engine light lit up. At one of my stops i read the codes they were p0171 p0174 p1171 p1174. I cleared them and drove to the grocery. Went inside for 10 minutes and it almost started but not quite. Had to leave it in the parking light. I cranked it in short bursts a few times. Each time it stuttered but failed to start. After 5 tries it wasnt even sputtering so I quit trying to save the battery. I checked the scanner again and it said there was no data stream. Also after a little bit of cranking, short bursts with a totally perfecty charged battery it began flashing the m and s lights again. What am I missing?? Please help!!
#13
#14
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The 1171 and 1174 are lean codes and point to a vac leak somewhere. Basically air is entering the system somewhere past the MAF sensor. I made a thread a while back to help track down vac leaks. It might be worth a try.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...s-cigar-54235/
I've had 1171 and 1174 twice. First time was the clamp that holds the intake tube to the intake wasn't tight, and the second was bad lower injector o-rings.
https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...s-cigar-54235/
I've had 1171 and 1174 twice. First time was the clamp that holds the intake tube to the intake wasn't tight, and the second was bad lower injector o-rings.
#15
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When i get it back to the house I'll do a smoke test. Then commence to checking for spark and fuel pressure again. Last check revealed great spark and great fuel pressure. It seems as if the moment it gives me the flashing m and s lights, all is lost. I have also read varying reports about whether or not the check engine light should be on or off during cranking. Mine stays lit during cranking. Should it?
#16
#17
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Thanks for your input. That makes sense. Also makes sense that the fuel pump might be intermittent. When i checkwd last time the pressure was great but there is no way to know that in the grocery store parking lot. I'm getting pretty fast at pulling the plenum. If it weren't for those damn little bolts that hold the coil bracket........
#18
#19
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Ok, I dragged it home last night. My fuel pressure tester is a large professional unit. It uses an adapter fitting to attach to the schrader valve. So i have to remove the plenum to check the pressure. I pulled the plenum and got 51psi while cranking. Good strong flicker with a noid light pligged into an injector harness. Good strong regular spark. I saw a little wetness around the ports of the plenum gasket. I may have had some leakage between the upper and lower intake. That could explain the lean codes. I'm going to pull the fuel rail up a little bit so I can verify that the injectors are actually spraying when i crank it. One interesting detail. The manual says the pump should come up with the key in position 2. Mine doesn't come on till i crank. I went and listened to my 2002 disco 2 and it does run the pump in position 2 without cranking. Is there a difference in these vehicles? The relay works fine. On the 2000 it just doesn't close and run the pump till i crank it
#20