Non start, battery fine. I think.
#1
Non start, battery fine. I think.
The last couple of weeks starting the rover has been slightly more laborious. I assumed the battery was going out, it's old looking. I carry a starter pack so wasn't worried. Not sure of amps, will check. Certainly doesn't look like it is meaty enough. On turn over it would hesitate. Chug a couple of times, then fire. Once warm, everything started strong, for the rest of the day.
This morning. Cold here, like a lot of places. Starter turned a couple of times. But nothing like enough to fire up.
Plough guy was here, we hooked his truck to mine, same! Even with plough guy giving me full revs through the cables, the rover labours, and doesn't turn enough to fire.
Starter?
Got my battery off, showing 13.5+v. It usually charges at 14+v according to the UG.
So, now I'm suspicious my battery is fine. Which leads to the question, what could likely have the symptoms of a dying battery, but is something else?
It's not crazy cold here, but will be as the sun starts to drop. Would love to sort this soon.
Thanks guys.
This morning. Cold here, like a lot of places. Starter turned a couple of times. But nothing like enough to fire up.
Plough guy was here, we hooked his truck to mine, same! Even with plough guy giving me full revs through the cables, the rover labours, and doesn't turn enough to fire.
Starter?
Got my battery off, showing 13.5+v. It usually charges at 14+v according to the UG.
So, now I'm suspicious my battery is fine. Which leads to the question, what could likely have the symptoms of a dying battery, but is something else?
It's not crazy cold here, but will be as the sun starts to drop. Would love to sort this soon.
Thanks guys.
#2
Just tried the battery again via a set of leads. No start.
Interesting that the UG when it had booted up was only showing 11.6v, when the battery on the bench was reading 13.5v.
I have a spare battery, although of dubious condition. Read at 13.1v. No dice.
Truck is making a lot of ticking noises. Starter might turn a couple of times. Nothing more.
Interesting that the UG when it had booted up was only showing 11.6v, when the battery on the bench was reading 13.5v.
I have a spare battery, although of dubious condition. Read at 13.1v. No dice.
Truck is making a lot of ticking noises. Starter might turn a couple of times. Nothing more.
#3
Reading around it is showing signs of the alternator.
But wouldn't the truck start from a decent charged battery? I realise it wouldn't 'recharge' the battery, but should turn over properly. Especially if hooked up to a high revving truck, no?
I've checked the ground connections. All look good.
Any thoughts. I'm at the end of my knowledge.
But wouldn't the truck start from a decent charged battery? I realise it wouldn't 'recharge' the battery, but should turn over properly. Especially if hooked up to a high revving truck, no?
I've checked the ground connections. All look good.
Any thoughts. I'm at the end of my knowledge.
#4
#5
If the battery is sound, an alternator issue will not prevent the truck from starting.
So it sounds like one of three problems:
1. Bad battery
2. Bad starter
3. Bad connection somewhere
I'd guess it's the starter, but the battery is cheaper and more likely to fail.
1. Take the truck to an auto zone and have them test the battery and alternator.
2. Ideally, you should use a multimeter to check the voltage at the starter when it is engaged. It should be the same as what the battery is producing. If it isn't you need to trace the wires for a bad or corroded connection.
3. If the battery tests good and the voltage at the starter is ok, it's very likely a bad starter.
So it sounds like one of three problems:
1. Bad battery
2. Bad starter
3. Bad connection somewhere
I'd guess it's the starter, but the battery is cheaper and more likely to fail.
1. Take the truck to an auto zone and have them test the battery and alternator.
2. Ideally, you should use a multimeter to check the voltage at the starter when it is engaged. It should be the same as what the battery is producing. If it isn't you need to trace the wires for a bad or corroded connection.
3. If the battery tests good and the voltage at the starter is ok, it's very likely a bad starter.
#6
If the battery is sound, an alternator issue will not prevent the truck from starting.
So it sounds like one of three problems:
1. Bad battery
2. Bad starter
3. Bad connection somewhere
I'd guess it's the starter, but the battery is cheaper and more likely to fail.
1. Take the truck to an auto zone and have them test the battery and alternator.
2. Ideally, you should use a multimeter to check the voltage at the starter when it is engaged. It should be the same as what the battery is producing. If it isn't you need to trace the wires for a bad or corroded connection.
3. If the battery tests good and the voltage at the starter is ok, it's very likely a bad starter.
So it sounds like one of three problems:
1. Bad battery
2. Bad starter
3. Bad connection somewhere
I'd guess it's the starter, but the battery is cheaper and more likely to fail.
1. Take the truck to an auto zone and have them test the battery and alternator.
2. Ideally, you should use a multimeter to check the voltage at the starter when it is engaged. It should be the same as what the battery is producing. If it isn't you need to trace the wires for a bad or corroded connection.
3. If the battery tests good and the voltage at the starter is ok, it's very likely a bad starter.
I'm starting to suspect the starter as well. I've tried the trusty hammer tap trick, no joy. Will look at the voltage when it's trying to turn over.
Starter is tricky to get to right? Barely found it to give it a tap. Any tips on getting the multimeter on the connections?
Can I just find the positive, and ground the other lead to the starter housing?
Thanks.
#8
Found I can pull the heat shield back a bit and expose the terminal, got a clip on it. Extended the wires.means I could nicely stand next to the truck while the missus cranked it and I looked at the meter.
So, battery read 12.3v. I know is low, but it's being hammered at the moment.
I read 12.3 at the starter without cranking, 11.9v while cranking. And it isn't a crank as such, more of a slow death turn.
My instinct is to blame the starter. Battery back on charge, see what happens when it's at 13.5+....
So, battery read 12.3v. I know is low, but it's being hammered at the moment.
I read 12.3 at the starter without cranking, 11.9v while cranking. And it isn't a crank as such, more of a slow death turn.
My instinct is to blame the starter. Battery back on charge, see what happens when it's at 13.5+....
#9
Now confused.
Hooked car up to a booster, starter, battery pack. Roared into life. Starter was strong.
So, actually the biggest thing on my blame list right now are the jump starter leads which I was using. Followed by battery. Now it's up and running I can take it to AZ tomorrow to get some things tested.
Thanks for reading
Hooked car up to a booster, starter, battery pack. Roared into life. Starter was strong.
So, actually the biggest thing on my blame list right now are the jump starter leads which I was using. Followed by battery. Now it's up and running I can take it to AZ tomorrow to get some things tested.
Thanks for reading
#10
Definitely get the battery tested at one of the chain stores. If the battery tests good, one possible cause could be bad spots on the starter armature. I have seen a starter like that actually start when jumped because the increased input from the jump burs through the bad spots.
If the battery tests good, the next time it doesn't start, remove the small wire from the starter and see if it gets battery voltage when you try to start it. The large wire on the starter is always going to have battery voltage because it is fed directly from the battery. If the small wire gets power when you turn to start, but when reconnected the starter does nothing, it is a bad starter.
I went through this last week, and the week before.
If the battery tests good, the next time it doesn't start, remove the small wire from the starter and see if it gets battery voltage when you try to start it. The large wire on the starter is always going to have battery voltage because it is fed directly from the battery. If the small wire gets power when you turn to start, but when reconnected the starter does nothing, it is a bad starter.
I went through this last week, and the week before.