Looks like I need to replace my ball joints. I have done some reading on this and it seems like experienced folks have problems and it takes six hours. Being a noob - should I even attempt this? My disco is my daily driver so I really only have a saturday and sunday to work on this. Thoughts?


Passenger side. Seems like there is a bushing here.

Drivers side. Big gap. No bushing?

 

I’ve removed my cv’s a few times now and I don’t find it bad at all. I don’t suspect going a little further pressing out the ball joints should be a problem. You will definitely need a ball joint press. I always like to think of things as just nuts and bolts. It all goes together fairly easy, difficult and time consuming are two different things. I’m about to attempt my ball joints here in the next three weeks after a few run I have scheduled. If you haven’t attempted it by then I’ll snap some pictures and report back any difficulties I may have had. I also plan on boring out my knuckle/spindle to make it easier to slide in my Ashcroft HD CV’s instead of having to install the clamp after it’s in. Harbor Frieght Tools has a decent priced Ball joint press that I purchased and use for u joints. Seems stout and I recommend.

 

I did both sides in 5 hours. It was a PITA but at least it's done. All I can say is use lots of presoaking with penetrating oil, a proper ball joint kit, an impact gun (I didn't have one at the time) and a lot of swearing.

 

The key was the proper ball joint kit -
the cast “arms” off each side of the front axle are tapered right into the ball joint seat.
I rented ball jt press kit at local auto parts & cups provided were not adaquate to sit flat and seat flush around the Frame.
I used a matco professional ball joint kit - which had an array of funky cups & I was able to stack and push the ball joints out without a problem. It took me some good time as well to keep rearranging the puzzle of cups to suit.

I didn’t use an impact either - but I did have a 5’ breaker bar & some 1” drive sockets- and it was a workout.

 

All right I will give this a go. Got the parts on order and will rent the tools from advance auto. While I am here I will probably replace the brake calipers (one is frozen) and install stainless steel brake lines. It’s going to be a fun weekend.

Thanks for the info!!!

 

How did you diagnose that you need to replace the ball joints? The fact that the rubber boots are shot is not conclusive. The chief mechanic at the best independent Rover shop here told me they've seen trucks go for years with shredded rubber boots but no play in the joints. That's been the case with my truck; shredded rubber boots with no indication of any problems with the joint. I check them with a pry bar regularly. The truck just turned 177,000 miles. With the tire off the ground use any kind of pry bar you have or can adapt to the purpose to check for play in the joint when you try to lift the tire and wheel using the pry bar.

 

I did do the pry bar method and saw no play. But when I go over a speed bump I get a big clang that I have been unable to figure out. I am just putting 2+2 together but it may not equal 4.

 

I really liked this video - I havent done this myself but will reference this when I do.......
On a side note - my ball joints are 217k miles old with no boots and no issues. Doesnt mean I dont want to replace them - it'll be preventative when I do the shocks, drag link etc etc.
I've read a thread recently with multiple comments similar to mine - guys with ball joints with no boots for years with no issues..
Double check your sway bar end link ball joints if you havent. A worn endlink will make some interesting noises as well.
The track rod and drag link also have ball joints to check.

 

I had that big bang over bumps, It went away when I changed from OME shocks to Terrafirma. Not ball joint related in my case and seems like it was the same exact noise you are describing.

 

As someone who just did the upgrade to steel brake lines, the front drivers side takes 5x as long as all the other sides due to there being three lines there and a bracket that's extremely hard to reach. Took me about 1.5 hours total. Pre-soak the brake 11mm line nuts ahead of time!
Also keep in mind you'll need a code reader that can initiate the brake bleed function on your Disco. Foxwell NT520 scanner is what I bought for this. You may want to leave that job for another weekend so that you're not pressed for time.
No real reason to do this at the same time as your ball joint replacement but I think rebuilding the caliper makes sense at the same time.