Is this normal??
Hello everyone. I am new to the forum but i have already found a ton of useful information and i hope to be able to contribute as well.
I have a 98 Disco 4.0L 100,000 miles. To make a long story short I had to replace the lower radiator hose and ended up replacing the coolant reservoir, water pump, thermostat, and I replaced the clutch fan with an electric fan setup. The problem is that i have been trying to bleed the cooling system for a week now and i am still getting bubbles coming out of the hose that goes from the radiator to the coolant reservoir. I also can hear sloshing coming from the heater core. How can i remedy this?? Is this normal?? Any help is greatly appreciated!!
I have a 98 Disco 4.0L 100,000 miles. To make a long story short I had to replace the lower radiator hose and ended up replacing the coolant reservoir, water pump, thermostat, and I replaced the clutch fan with an electric fan setup. The problem is that i have been trying to bleed the cooling system for a week now and i am still getting bubbles coming out of the hose that goes from the radiator to the coolant reservoir. I also can hear sloshing coming from the heater core. How can i remedy this?? Is this normal?? Any help is greatly appreciated!!
I have been releasing the air via the fill capas it would build up in the coolant reservoir, and i would hear a hissing sound as it escapes. I have done this as the engine is running, and after it has cooled. I havn't had to add coolant and that is the part that is strange to me. The coolant remains at the mid way mark on the reservoir. I still hear the sloshing, I have checked for leaks and found none. The engine runs perfect, no coolant in oil and no oil in coolant. No smoking. Thanks for thefast responce!! Sean
You are bleeding it wrong.
Remove the fill plug ontop of the radiator, remove the cap from the resevoir. Turnboth heater **** to hot and the HVAC fan to low and the heater controls to vent.
Roll down the drivers window.
Start the truck and fill the radiator and coolant resevoir. Let the truck idle.
Once a steady stream of coolant comes out of the fill plug hole on the radiator replace the plug.
Once a steady stream of steam comes out of the coolant resevoir replace the coolant cap.
Leave the truck running the whole time that you are doing this. Becareful when you replace the fill plug on the radiator so that you dont get burned.
Keep sticking your hand in the drivers window to make sure that you have heat coming from the dash vents while you are bleeding the system.
Once you are done you can turn the engine off.
Then for the next 2mornings after driving the truck check the coolant level and make sure that it is full adding coolant as necassary.
Remove the fill plug ontop of the radiator, remove the cap from the resevoir. Turnboth heater **** to hot and the HVAC fan to low and the heater controls to vent.
Roll down the drivers window.
Start the truck and fill the radiator and coolant resevoir. Let the truck idle.
Once a steady stream of coolant comes out of the fill plug hole on the radiator replace the plug.
Once a steady stream of steam comes out of the coolant resevoir replace the coolant cap.
Leave the truck running the whole time that you are doing this. Becareful when you replace the fill plug on the radiator so that you dont get burned.
Keep sticking your hand in the drivers window to make sure that you have heat coming from the dash vents while you are bleeding the system.
Once you are done you can turn the engine off.
Then for the next 2mornings after driving the truck check the coolant level and make sure that it is full adding coolant as necassary.
While you're at it, rip those electric fans out of there and go back to the clutch/fan setup! If you have overheating problems with a Rover, look to the radiator first. In fact, while you were replacing all of this stuff, it would have been a good idea to pull the rad and have it flushed and flow tested. The radiators are a weak point on these trucks.
I agree, get rid of the cheap electric fan and go back to the basics. I have seen a electric system that worked well, but at $600 for the proper parts, most won't want to pay this.
A correctly functioning Rover cooling system is bulletproof. Typically, when folks start doing things like putting electric fans on, they are trying to compensate for poor performance somewhere else in the cooling system.
There are aftermarket fan clutches available for a fraction of the cost of the Rover part. Radiators are expensive, but not as expensive as the headjob that I would have avoided, had I bitten the bullet and bought a new radiator-ask me how I know this!
Electric fans rarely move enough air, are usually not responsive to changing loads on the engine, nor changing temps of the cooling system and can fail and not be noticed until one is buying headgaskets and bolts and becoming friends with the local machine shop.
There are aftermarket fan clutches available for a fraction of the cost of the Rover part. Radiators are expensive, but not as expensive as the headjob that I would have avoided, had I bitten the bullet and bought a new radiator-ask me how I know this!
Electric fans rarely move enough air, are usually not responsive to changing loads on the engine, nor changing temps of the cooling system and can fail and not be noticed until one is buying headgaskets and bolts and becoming friends with the local machine shop.


