My battery has been draining for sometime so I put an ammeter in series at the battery to test the draw. The reading I get is consistently 111mA or .111 on the 10 Amp setting,

I pulled fuses and found that when pulling Fuse 20 (Interior Lights, Clock/Radio, Engine Remobilisation, CD Player, Key i/Lock, Diagnostics) the draw falls to 20mA which would be in the realm of acceptable.

My question now is what the normal amount of amp draw is for the vehicle. I want to make sure that there is actually an issue and the battery draining is just from me not driving the vehicle a whole lot.

Does anyone know what the normal draw is or where I can find it? I have been searching the rave for it, but have not found it. I'd rather not get the wiring diagrams and begin researching if the draw is normal. The fact that the draw is coming from a fuse that runs systems that would normally cause a draw is what is giving me pause.

 

If I'm not mistaken should be like 35 mA

 

Thanks Bmeier.

I detached my Grom Audio iPod adapter and the draw dropped to 2 mA so that is the culprit. I am going to contact grom and see if their is a fix or I will relocate it to underneath the seat so it can be easily disconnected.

 

The clock and immobiliser/alarm draws a constant current of a few milliamps 24/7. Ensure you don't leave internal lights on or radio otherwise the load is much higher. It's worth a load test check on your battery for max current and condition. Winter is the hardest time on batteries due to the additional loads imposed. Starting is one of the highest loads along with heated windscreens, aircon and lights. It needs a longish run periodically to recharge the battery or be hooked up regularly to a low trickle charger that charges and discharges which desulfates the battery, typically, an Optimate.

PS many accessories although not present or connected, phone adaptors, external satnavs etc often draw down a few milliamps. If not in use it pays to unplug them particularly if the truck is only used infrequently.

 

I don't drive the car often so that is probably the issue. I pulled the stereo and removed the Grom Adapter. I have an email out to them to see what they recommend. Having it behind the stereo makes it impossible to simply disconnect as the wire is not long enough to route to the glove compartment or somewhere accessible.

I am weighing my options. I love the adapter so will go a couple of different ways, I can wire it under the seat where the cd changer is by switching the plugs from the cd changer and the grom adapter. Or I can order a different connector from them. this is fine, but I would need to go under the seat or have it somewhere where I can lug and unplug it when i want to use it. Not a bad option but not very elegant.

Second, I may buy a hazard light switch and wire that in between the stereo and adapter so I can turn it on and off from the dashboard. I don't think that would be terribly difficult. I would need to do some research. I may have to go to a junkyard and cut out a multiplug from a different Disco. Or I could try and solder it directly to the switch. i would think that I could use the red wire/power source from the adapter and splice that switch into it so I could turn the power off from the stereo to the adapter.

Not sure what I will do.

 

Why not just rewire the Grom to a switched circuit?

 

This is probably what I will do. I will need to do some reading to learn how, but shouldn't be hard to do once I figure it out.

What kind of switch should I use? I am thinking a Hazards light swith, paint it and stencil on an iPhone logo. Or could I use rear/side defroster button so I get an indicator light?

 

Uh. No.

Wire the power for the Grom into a circuit that's OFF when the ignition is off. You don't need any other switches.

 

what he saying is hook the adaptor up to a wire, that is only powered when the truck is ON

 

Yes! And be sure to use a fuse.