I've heard about complaints on the inline mod throwing codes because there's too big of a temperature differential between the two sides. Is there anything to this?

 

If there is a code for too big of a temp differential, it is because the thermostat has not opened, therefore the engine temp is high and the radiator temp is low. So either they put the thermostat backwards, air in the system(thermostat needs water to work, same as temp sending unit or heater), or bad thermostat.

 

I drive around with a code reader plugged in. Always. And I watch my temperature like a hawk. I haven't unplugged it in months (maybe why my battery is being replaced today) and I've never had any high temps since installing the inline mod. (minus a few days when I had a garbage electric fan setup that blocked the radiator), even in Austin and San Antonio highway/city driving when the temperature outside was over a hundred and I had to both drive fast (85 mph on the tollway) and then immediately slow (everywhere else... Standstill traffic).

Also, fwiw, I didn't drill a hole in my thermostat or get the one with the wiggle part. Unlike the two pictures above, I have the inline mod you see in the forums and there is a pettcock valve on a fitting for releasing air. I fill from the hose on the radiator side of the thermostat, close it up, then open that valve and finish it off from the expansion tank with the valve open, until liquid bubbles out. The hole method doesn't leave a very large hole for air anyway and keeping it at 12 o'clock in a screw-on setup is not the easiest thing to do.

I'm going to swap the location of my valve and my thermostat today... Having the thermostat closer to the engine makes perfect sense. Also, that puts the valve at the highest location (on top of the shroud).

 

Nobody on this forum has had 1 negative thing to say about it, including any fault codes or otherwise

 

I decided to move my thermostat closer to the engine. It turned into a job. Only parts needed were spare hoses out of the garage, some 1 inch pipe fittings from home Depot, and a bunch of clamps. Total cost maybe 10 dollars.

Yes, I know it looks horrible. But this is in the name of science!

The before shot. Janky.



The after shot. Even more janky.




Since my bleed has moved I drilled the thermostat.




Here is how you get the air out when you fill it.

 

I should have mentioned that you also want to use some rtv on the pipe nipples. The threads will leak if you don't. I used this because I had it laying around.

 

Jeeze! Hey, find a way to re-route from the block to the driver side of truck. I.e., over/under the AC compressor instead of the alternator. It will be MUCH cleaner while removing 2 unnecessary feet of radiator hose.

 

Whoa. That's genius! I will find it. I have tons of hose.

While putting this back together I heard a squeak and looked down and my crank pulley was wobbling! Bad! Explains my oil leak and general rumbling. Check this out!




The vibration damper is squeezing out!

Of course I had a spare and a new front seal and it is on already but wow! My rover hates me!

But it loves it's new huge oil filter.

 

Unbievable!! LmAo. If you didn't work on your own truck, I don't even know how much extra time you would have. Every time you attempt one tiny mod or repair it turns into a mechanical fiasco! Smorgasbord, if you will. That oil filter makes my NAPA gold look like a damn pup.

 

So true! Something is always askew on my rover! It should be in the Smithsonian next to the darwin award winner. If I didn't have this truck I'd have four jobs and be rich!

That is a wix filter. It was obscenely expensive. About 15 bucks. I checked the bypass pressure, etc. When I took my old filter out and put this one on I was 1.5 quarts low! I had to dig up my apocalypse supply of oil!