Decided that I was going to do my brakes this weekend. The job consisted of installing rotors, pads, calipers, +2 ss lines and ss jump hoses. Started Saturday, pulled the cailpers (left them hanging), pulled the rotors and cleaned the rust off the hubs. Need to order a left rear hub because it is leaking (no oil on the inside of the rim, but there is a lot of buildup of oil/dirt on the hub). I got all the calipers, rotors, pads and ss brake lines installed pretty much uneventful.

It didn't go so well when I tried replacing the 2 jump hoses with ss lines. I disconnected the lines from the abs unit and unhooked the jump hoses from the metal lines running to the rear. The bottom one had resistance the whole way out. Upon further inspection the threads on the line going to the rear are gone. I drilled out the rivet holding the bracket onto the wheel well, so I can get the jump hoses, bracket and lines to the abs unit out. After i got them out, I noticed I nicked one of the lines. I tried to get the other line apart from the jump hose and stripped the hex on the line fitting (I was using a line wrench ), I figured since the fitting was stripped I can try vise grips. Still wouldn't come apart. And these fittings were sprayed with PB Blaster a few times the day before.

Now I need to find both lines that go from the abs unit to the jump hoses (p/n SGB112871) and line to the rear that the lower jump hose screws into (p/n SGB112882). I already sent an email to Paul Grant. If he doesn't have them, I will order them from landrovermerriamparts.com

I am regretting my decision to replace the jump hoses. I figured since I was doing all this other brake work, I should replace the jump hoses. If I left them alone, it would have been back on the road today, instead its layed up untill I can source the lines.

 

What size is the brake lines on a DII? Metric or imperial? My caliper is not reading right. (Edit: After some searching I found that its 4.75mm / 3/16")

I am thinking of getting a bubble flare kit and try to repair the line going to the rear by cutting off the flare, getting a new fitting (I believe it a 10mm x 1) and reflare the line.

I may try to bend new lines form the jump hoses to the ABS.

 

building brake lines is really pretty easy. I had to make some for an f-250. I would much rather make them than pay an outrageous price from aristocrat. if paul doesn't have them , try making them. when you have the old line to duplicate it really helps. oreilly has everything you need.

 

I always make my own lines, but those mechanical flaring kits just suck. When I did the D1, I just bought a hydraulic flaring tool. Much better.

As an aside, when my 1999 Mercury wagon brake lines burst (totally rusted) on my way to work 2 years ago, a local shop quoted me $900 (!) to fabricate and install new lines.

I carefully drove it home, spent about $40 on lines & fitting at the local auto parts store, and made my own in about 4 hours. And I know it's done right.

 

I just ordered a Cal Van in-line bubble flare tool. Automotive Inline Bubble Flaring Tool Kit
It looks better thank the flare bar & yoke style flaring tools.

I hope that that there is enough straight line to reflare the line that goes to the rear.

I don't have an O'riliey's by me. There is an AutoZone, Advance Auto, Pepboys and NAPA. Advance stocks NiCopp preflared lines. AGS Company - NiCopp Products
The NiCopp is supposed to be real easy to bend, they are about twice the price of the Poly-Armour steel lines.. If Paul doesn't have them, I doubt the preflared lines will be the length I need. I will buy longer lines then bend, cut and reflare the one end.

 

Paul doesn't sell used lines. Looks like I will be getting two 30" NiCopp lines from advance auto Buy NiCopp 3/16X40 NICOP JAPAN CNE-330 at Advance Auto Parts

One line measures 27" and the other 28.5".

The part number corresponds to a 30" line however advance's description says 40".

 

Excuse a novice for asking.... but what exactly are "jump hoses"? I take interest in this thread because I have a new set of extended SS brake lines to install on my D2 as well. Wondering if I will run into the same problems as the OP of this thread... So yeah what are these jump hoses? Did a google search and nothing came up.

Thanks

 

If you look in the front left wheel well you will see two rubber lines (about 8" long) these are the jump lines.

Look at the photo on the bottom of this page - Extreme 4x4 Ltd DISCOVERY 1&2 BRAKE HOSES

The factory rubber ones are p/n SHB101350

I got SS ones form crown performance for $45 + S&H

 

I got the two lines bent. Now I am waiting for the bubble flare tool to showup. Hopefully it will arrive today or tomorrow so, I can get it back on the road this weekend. If it doesn't, I may try to take the lines off my 99 thats not on the road (runs, but needs too much work). Then I will start parting the 99 out.

 

The tool came in the mail today. I was able to cut off the old button flare, put on a new fitting and reflare the line. Hooked the line back up. I flushed/bleed the brakes using a check valve type of bleeder. It worked great.

I then figured I woukd have to bed in the pads. A quick google search rdvealed that I dont. Found this on a BMW forum.


Thank you for your inquiry and for choosing Akebono Euro brake pads for your BMW. On the question of bedding procedures: We do not believe any special care needs be taken after the pads are installed especially if your rotors are new OE quality, or the existing good condition rotors are used at the time of new pad installation, as long as the rotors have not been resurfaced with a brake lathe. Akebono pads are fully cured during the manufacturing process and there are no "green" resins or binders at the surface as you might expect with other aftermarket friction materials. Our manufacturing process is unique and not shared by other aftermarket manufacturers.

If your rotors were resurfaced it is possible that the finish is now outside of OE specification for smoothness (Ra 15-30 microns) and you may not realize the full bite potential of the Euro pads until that smoothness has a chance to re-form and a friction transfer layer has occurred. The transfer layer usually appears as a blackish finish on the rotor surfaces, and should be very polished in appearance. This event will feel like a bedding procedure but in fact it is rotor burnishing procedure. There is no particular Akebono recommended procedure required and it will happen naturally, if you will.

I hope I have been able to address your concern. Please feel free to ask for more information should you need it.

Sincerely,

Robin Gedye
Sr. Product Manager, Aftermarket Div.
Akebono Brake Company - U.S.H.Q.
310 Ring Road
Elizabethtown, KY 42701
Tel: (270) 234-5547 Cell: (859) 805 1849