Nothing is easy, except in the RAVE — Door Adjustment
Thread Starter
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Winching
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 585
Likes: 46
From: Toronto
Nothing is easy, except in the RAVE — Door Adjustment
Looks so easy in the RAVE.
"Loosen 4 bolts securing hinges to door", how hard could that be?
Trying to adjust the driver's side door.
Can't for the life of me figure out a way to get at the bolts without removing the front quarter panel (kidding - I hope), so buried in the hinge. None of the 800 tools I have for bolts can reach (every Christmas, some great looking new version, none of which can ever quite fit the one bolt I'm after).
Any ideas? A half inch high socket and ratchet would do, but I don't think those exist.
Now in going back to the rave, I notice it says "the bolts securing the hinge to the door". My thinking says it would have to be the bolts between the hinge and the body if it's going to allow the door to pivot up and down. Am I wrong?
Thanks.
N.
"Loosen 4 bolts securing hinges to door", how hard could that be?
Trying to adjust the driver's side door.
Can't for the life of me figure out a way to get at the bolts without removing the front quarter panel (kidding - I hope), so buried in the hinge. None of the 800 tools I have for bolts can reach (every Christmas, some great looking new version, none of which can ever quite fit the one bolt I'm after).
Any ideas? A half inch high socket and ratchet would do, but I don't think those exist.
Now in going back to the rave, I notice it says "the bolts securing the hinge to the door". My thinking says it would have to be the bolts between the hinge and the body if it's going to allow the door to pivot up and down. Am I wrong?
Thanks.
N.
Thread Starter
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Winching
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 585
Likes: 46
From: Toronto
No advice from someone who's done this? Oh, Landroverforums, such disappointment.
I've filed flat sides into a 13mm socket and I think I can do it with a "magic wrench" on the outside of that. Would have tried today, but apparently it's time for midwinter snowstorms. Damn you March!
I've filed flat sides into a 13mm socket and I think I can do it with a "magic wrench" on the outside of that. Would have tried today, but apparently it's time for midwinter snowstorms. Damn you March!
Thread Starter
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Winching
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 585
Likes: 46
From: Toronto
Tried again today. Total no go. Even with my hand built tool I could only get about 5º of swing on the tool, just no chance of turning those bolts.
Kind of glad it went poorly, I noticed after the fact that the hinge mounts to body with three bolts and not the two I initially thought (per hinge). If the top and bottom bolts are difficult to get to the middle one is impossible.
The only way to get at them (so far as I can tell) is to remove either the door (and then you couldn't tell if it lines up anyway) or the front quarter panel. Which seems insane.
So instead I'm thinking shims under the point where the hinges attach to the door (on the lower hinge). Does this seem sane?
Kind of glad it went poorly, I noticed after the fact that the hinge mounts to body with three bolts and not the two I initially thought (per hinge). If the top and bottom bolts are difficult to get to the middle one is impossible.
The only way to get at them (so far as I can tell) is to remove either the door (and then you couldn't tell if it lines up anyway) or the front quarter panel. Which seems insane.
So instead I'm thinking shims under the point where the hinges attach to the door (on the lower hinge). Does this seem sane?
Mudding
Joined: Jun 2012
Posts: 145
Likes: 1
Refit
1. With assistance position door to hinges.
2. Fit 'C' clips to hinge pins.
3. Position check strap to 'A' post and secure with
new roll pin.
4. Feed door harness through 'A' post.
5. Connect and secure multiplugs at lower 'A'
post.
6. Connect harness sleeve to 'A' post and door.
7. Fit 'A' post finisher.
8. Check door for flush fit to adjacent panels and
door edges for equal gap. If adjustment is
necessary:
a Open door
b Place a wooden block on jack and position
jack to support door lower edge.
c Loosen 4 bolts securing hinges to door.
d Loosen 2 Torx bolts securing door latch
striker.
e Use jack to assist with door alignment.
f Tighten hinge bolts.
g Remove jack, close door and check for
correct alignment.
h When alignment is correct, tighten door
hinge bolts to 30 Nm (22 lbf.ft).
i Adjust door latch striker and tighten Torx
bolts to 26 Nm (19 lbf.ft).
1. With assistance position door to hinges.
2. Fit 'C' clips to hinge pins.
3. Position check strap to 'A' post and secure with
new roll pin.
4. Feed door harness through 'A' post.
5. Connect and secure multiplugs at lower 'A'
post.
6. Connect harness sleeve to 'A' post and door.
7. Fit 'A' post finisher.
8. Check door for flush fit to adjacent panels and
door edges for equal gap. If adjustment is
necessary:
a Open door
b Place a wooden block on jack and position
jack to support door lower edge.
c Loosen 4 bolts securing hinges to door.
d Loosen 2 Torx bolts securing door latch
striker.
e Use jack to assist with door alignment.
f Tighten hinge bolts.
g Remove jack, close door and check for
correct alignment.
h When alignment is correct, tighten door
hinge bolts to 30 Nm (22 lbf.ft).
i Adjust door latch striker and tighten Torx
bolts to 26 Nm (19 lbf.ft).
Once you've jacked the door to the correct position/angle, tighten said bolts, and see if it fits. Wash, rinse, repeat until door fits correctly.
If your hinges are coming loose from the pillar, that's probably going to require a removal of the door to remedy.
Thread Starter
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Winching
Joined: Nov 2012
Posts: 585
Likes: 46
From: Toronto
That's what I first thought, but I can't see how changing those bolts would make a difference to the height of the door at the latch side — they're on the wrong plane (see attached).
That's why I think shiming the lower two bolt (door side of the hinge), would be best.
That's why I think shiming the lower two bolt (door side of the hinge), would be best.