rotoflex - I know its purpose is to dampen drive line vibrations, but to me it seems like the weak point when off-road. Does anybody make a solid metal replacement or has anybody just lengthen their drive shaft?

sway bar disconnects - I havent seen anybody on here mention them but they are very common with other off-road vehicles. With jeeps you can just remove the rear sway bar and use disconnects on the front when off-road. Since our discos are very heavy and have a high COG removing the rear sway bars is probably not a good idea for on highway use. It has been my experience that dollar for dollar disconnects are the best off-road mod you can buy.

 

If and when my rotoflex fails I'll probably just replace it with a U joint. I think I remember seeing a conversion kit some where. I think as far as performance goes you are pretty much set with a 2-3" lift (more if you want but not necessary), 32" tires and lockers. That's just about all I'll be doing anyway. Aside from armor and lights and crap.

 

Nite, I think Tom Woods (www.4Xshaft.com) says something about those. Click Land Rover or call em[&:]

 

To do the roto conversion you need the 4 bolt flange and a spacer. AB sells a kit. You will also need a rear d/s from a RR (LWB I think). Call Will Tillery, Paul Grant, or John Gadd for any or all of those parts.

I have not messed with the sway bars yet, but Slickrock Fab makes a front set for the D2. Well, really JKS makes them, originally for Jeeps which require drilling a bigger hole. There's a write-up on DWeb on how to install them. But Slickrock was able to have JKS make a set for the D2 that doesn't require any drilling. Only one side (driver I think) can be held in place when disconnected. The other side you'll need a zip tie to keep everything out of the way. HiCountry OffRoad makes a set for the front and rear. Since the front links are longer than the rear, you could install the qd's upfront and install the front links on the rear.

 

I replaced my rotoflex at 88,000 miles and been on trails most only dream about, and I would never switch to a u-joint.
Whats with running a straight drive shaft without any u-joint or rotoflex, no way in the world you could ever do this.
So back to your original statement, off road mods, what are you planning on doing and in what order and for what kind of trails?

 

mike, it will just be used for light to moderate trails (31 inch tires) A big piece of rubber has to be weaker than a steel U-joint. The rotoflex on my bmw serves a purpose but is it really needed on a off-road vehicle? And yeah I would be converting to a U-joint, should of specified that in original post.

 

Any pictures or Videos ??

 

AB sells the conversion kit to go from a roto flex to a u-joint, it comes with the flange, driveshaft, everything you will need, $300 price range.
I cant find it otherwise I would post the link.
You can buy quick disconnects for your rear sway bar. It will give you more articutlation but no other benifit.
You will gain 1-2" in wheel travel.

 

Just use the rotoflex till or if it breaks. Only then will you know if you "need" a U-joint..

 

spike, any idea how much more articulation in front? With jeeps you get 1-2 rear 4-5 front. I was thinking you might get more with discos since they have radius arms.

jupiter, yeah that is probably what I will do..just hope I will be able to limp out in front wheel drive when it breaks.