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Oil Change, drain lines and front drive line

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  #1  
Old 11-02-2009 | 08:47 AM
04BluDisco's Avatar
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Mudding
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Default Oil Change, drain lines and front drive line

Changed the oil yesterday at 75,000 miles, continue using 10-30 Mobil 1 synthetic. Noticing that when I change it, the oil continues to be cleaner with each change, so clearly, it's cleaning out the internals of the engine, but slowly over time. Nice to see this.

What have people found successful for changing the filter without making a complete mess of everything? I have tried punching a hole in the bottom to drain it so it doesn't spill everywhere, I have tried wrapping a bag around it to catch the oil. Anyone have something that works well for them? I use the K&N filter which has the nut welded on the end so it's easy to get a purchase on thing with a wrench...., but successful filter changing techniques would be appreciated. I also still have the plastic plate that is on the bottom of the engine, but I am thinking of removing it as it's a complete PITA....

While I was down there, I greased the front drive shaft. I had it rebuilt with greasable joints a while back, but this was the first time I had greased it since I got it back form the driveline shop. On the forward fitting for the double cardan joint, I noticed that when I greased it, what looked like water was forced out of the joint. On further examination, it looks like it was actually just a very thin oil, something like you see when you haven't changed your grease gun cartidge for a while.... joints are all still tight with no play, but interesting, none-the-less.

I also make a point to maks sure the water drains (I think they are for the condensation) located by the tranny are open and free of clogs too... and noticed that over time, the driver side drain seems to be running down the side of the tranny and causing some rust. Anyone ever cut off the bottom end of the drain tip so that it's a bit more free flowing? My thinking being that if it's a bit more open, it will vent the water out quickly, and not subject the car parts to a slow drip. Thoughts?
 
  #2  
Old 11-02-2009 | 09:30 AM
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From: Grand Rapids MI
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Loosen the oil filter but do NOT remove it, let it drain, then slowly remove it the rest of the way making sure to keep it upright.

Whenever you grease a u-joint you need to make sure new grease comes out of all the caps.

Those are your a/c drains.
You could snip the ends off of them, or you can continue to make sure they are clear when you change your oil.
 
  #3  
Old 11-02-2009 | 01:07 PM
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From: Georgia, USA
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On the u-joint it sounds like maybe they didn't grease it after rebuilding it and you've been running it on the assembly grease that's in the u-joint when new. New serviceable u-joints should always be greased after installation.
 
  #4  
Old 11-02-2009 | 02:12 PM
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Are you running the plastic cover under the engine, if so remove it, it just gets in the way and in warmer states, it allows less air into the engine compartment and can cause the engine to run warmer.
 
  #5  
Old 11-02-2009 | 03:19 PM
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yeah, the plastic cover... It is a PITA....
 
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