Can you drive with the front drive line out of a 99 Discovery 2
I'm an established auto tech(which means a long time) and work at a Dodge dealer. I picked up 99 Discovery II for my wife. The rig has a u-joint going out in the front drive line which I can clearly feel. My questions are does anyone have a part # as my local Land Rover dealer said they only service the Driveline seperately, no joints(HA). And can this truck be driven with the front driveline removed from the truck?
I read about a "diff locker" in All Data but some clarification would be helpful...
Regards,
Randy
I read about a "diff locker" in All Data but some clarification would be helpful...
Regards,
Randy
Your dealer needs to look a little harder, I've ordered the joints before, its just a little more difficult to replace em. you can possibly match them up with a TRW number at your local parts store. DONT DRIVE this car until its fixed,
Your car uses its ABS system for traction control,so the center diff is open, converting to a locking diff is popular with off roaders but not nessary for the wifes daily driver , I'm sure somone here will let you know about that,cost and availability.
Your car uses its ABS system for traction control,so the center diff is open, converting to a locking diff is popular with off roaders but not nessary for the wifes daily driver , I'm sure somone here will let you know about that,cost and availability.
The bad thing about full time 4x4's is the diff's are made to work
as 1/2 half of the drive train.
What this means is that a part time 4x4 has a heavier rear diff made
to go it a lone.
Its much easier to break things on a full time 4x4 with one diff out
of action.
I would not do it.
as 1/2 half of the drive train.
What this means is that a part time 4x4 has a heavier rear diff made
to go it a lone.
Its much easier to break things on a full time 4x4 with one diff out
of action.
I would not do it.
You can drive temporarily with the front shaft removed. You have to manually lock the transfer case. Not good for a long period of time, because as Landzu said, the rear diffs are weak.
The front shaft will need 3 U-joints and a centering kit. I think the Napa part # is 344, not sure on the centering kit. Call a driveline shop and ask them for a quote. Might be worth it to not mess with everything. Not just a typical U-joint replacement. If you have never installed a centering kit, I hear they are a PITA.
The one thing that is not a reccomendation is DO NOT DRIVE UNTIL YOU GET IT FIXED. Pop a U joint from the fromt and you will be looking at $7000 in repairs. It will slap the transmission right out.
The front shaft will need 3 U-joints and a centering kit. I think the Napa part # is 344, not sure on the centering kit. Call a driveline shop and ask them for a quote. Might be worth it to not mess with everything. Not just a typical U-joint replacement. If you have never installed a centering kit, I hear they are a PITA.
The one thing that is not a reccomendation is DO NOT DRIVE UNTIL YOU GET IT FIXED. Pop a U joint from the fromt and you will be looking at $7000 in repairs. It will slap the transmission right out.
You might want to check with Tom Woods. He does great work: http://www.4xshaft.com/index.html
I did a CV shaft myself on my 1990 Bronco. ROYAL PITA. Wish I'd known about Tom then.
I did a CV shaft myself on my 1990 Bronco. ROYAL PITA. Wish I'd known about Tom then.
If you want to rebuild the drive shaft, use Car Quest's 1-0005 which is made by Spicer or the Percision 344 I believe. Either way Auto zone or and of the major auto parts stores have or can order the right u-joint, just make sure it has a grease fitting.
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