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Ah yes, oil cooler lines! I honestly don't know what a pig they are. The 03 and 04 models like mine didn't come with them and I've yet to add one. As for the fan, I figure people will assume its the standard righty tighty lefty loosey? Anyway, glad it helped you!
If you've still got an oil light after this though then you very likely have a gashed front cover, especially if you drove with a bad oil pump for a while. If that's the case you're oil pressure is still low and you need a new cover before you do more damage to your engine than you already have. Best of luck! |
The oil lines are a pig. They are 22mm (or 24? I can't remember) and getting the nut to go in the thread is an exercise of extreme patience because the lines are always a hair off and you cannot see your angle... it is just hit and miss to get them in, while struggling against the tension of the hard lines and everything else in the way. Once they are in and finger tight it is tiny little 1/4 turns, flipping the wrench each time. It your creeper doesn't have a head rest, you'll want an old pillow.
Torture! |
I'm going to be doing this on an 04 S with rear jump seats I just bought. It's exceptionally clean, 112k on it, Vienna Green with a black interior, Voyager Safari Roof Rack & Ladder. The oil light flickers on/off at low RPM's. I already changed the thermostat to a 180F, changed the oil, and even the oil pressure switch, but it still flickers (however it's better than it was).
The engine doesn't tick, or knock when the light comes on so I know the pump is working, it's just producing low PSI at idle. One thing I'm going to do differently vs the write up is run it and pull the fuel pump relay so I can bump start it for the harmonic balancer removal, and for priming the oil pump without worrying about it firing up. I've got a spare front timing cover (hope it's not from an 03 lol), so I'm going to order the oil pump, use a manual impact on the oil pump phillips head bolts, and have it all rebuilt and ready to go. I'll also probably grab myself a new water pump while I've got it all apart as a CYA. I have always had SE or HSE D2's and honestly I'm over keeping the sun roofs from leaking, the shades from being abused by people I have riding with me that let em slap open breaking off the little tabs. Plain jane stereo is fine with me as I'll toss in an aftermarket, but I really like the Vienna Green color as you don't see a lot of them and besides one window not working everything is in near mint condition. I grabbed it for 3500.00 and once I have the oil pump replaced I should be good to go. I plan on installing a 2inch lift, 500 AB front winch bumper, rear metal bumper, and some 265/75R16 tires soon. This write up makes the oil pump look very simple to do and thanks so much for doing a write up on it! |
I used this write-up and it was great.
A couple things I would recommend, take it or leave it. 1. Use The Right Stuff gasket maker on the front cover. I put a new paper gasket on and it was a pain in the butt, and crinkled while trying to fit the timing cover back on. The next day after getting it all back together, I had an oil spill, Gulf of Mexico style, and had to redo everything to fix the paper gasket that had crinkled up. I used The Right Stuff and literally have had zero oil leaks since, about a year and a half ago. It's incredible, and was so easy to put on. Much easier than the paper gasket and conformed better. 2. BE SURE to change the oil pickup tube O-ring, and be absolutely sure it's clean and not nicked. I put the O-ring back on, because I thought, "It's new, I just did all this a week ago," but I had nicked it taking it off and left a sliver of a cut in that tiny O-ring. My oil light flickered on and off randomly, at low RPM's, for months afterward, but life got so busy I couldn't pursue why. Brand new oil pump and all. Finally got around to dropping the oil pan and found the O-ring problem, and when I replaced it, no more low-RPM oil light, and it's been months since that. Amazing how so small a piece, and such a small neglect can mess things up. |
Originally Posted by za105
(Post 614847)
I used this write-up and it was great.
A couple things I would recommend, take it or leave it. 1. Use The Right Stuff gasket maker on the front cover. I put a new paper gasket on and it was a pain in the butt, and crinkled while trying to fit the timing cover back on. The next day after getting it all back together, I had an oil spill, Gulf of Mexico style, and had to redo everything to fix the paper gasket that had crinkled up. I used The Right Stuff and literally have had zero oil leaks since, about a year and a half ago. It's incredible, and was so easy to put on. Much easier than the paper gasket and conformed better. 2. BE SURE to change the oil pickup tube O-ring, and be absolutely sure it's clean and not nicked. I put the O-ring back on, because I thought, "It's new, I just did all this a week ago," but I had nicked it taking it off and left a sliver of a cut in that tiny O-ring. My oil light flickered on and off randomly, at low RPM's, for months afterward, but life got so busy I couldn't pursue why. Brand new oil pump and all. Finally got around to dropping the oil pan and found the O-ring problem, and when I replaced it, no more low-RPM oil light, and it's been months since that. Amazing how so small a piece, and such a small neglect can mess things up. I bought it dropped the pan & found a nut laying in the bottom!! I was scared at first until I discovered it went to the pickup tube support. The O-Ring was trashed from the flexing...... Replaced the O-Ring put some loctite on the nut & the oil light never flashed again! This 04 acts good cold, then 50/50 at idle. If it's not the pump it's either the pickup tube or O-Ring. However zero ticks or knocks. Engine sound never changes so I'm pretty confident a new pump or O-Ring should have me good to go. |
I don't think I posted about it, but I used this tutorial when I did my oil pump back in Feb.
1. Oil pump was in perfect shape with 150k miles on it and didn't need to be replaced. I did it mostly as preventative maintenance, but I do have a top en tap I was hoping to cure (it didn't). 2. This job was much larger than I was anticipating, and I'm pretty experienced. It ended up taking me 3-4 four hour sessions. I lost count, but because I can only squeeze out a day or maybe two a week for car work, it took weeks to get back together. 3. Parts of the job, the timing chain cover leaps to mind, woul dhave been much easier with help, which I don't have. It was a pretty big PITA to get that cover aligned right and back on. Finally, this is what I found in my oil pan: https://cimg0.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...47e6b54e7d.jpg Discovery oil pan |
https://cimg3.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...9b77ef55ef.jpg
https://cimg4.ibsrv.net/gimg/landrov...43c814ebef.jpg I am prepping a spare Front Timing Cover to be swapped over into my 04 D2. I got it from a 4.0L V8 that had a flickering oil light many many many years ago. I removed the oil pump cover and sure enough the outer oil pump gear has one crack thru it. No massive gouges in the Timing Cover or the oil pump cover plate. It has some small circular marks on it, but no deep groves, chunks missing, or rough spots. I'm planning on just packing it full of Vaseline, slapping in the new oil pump parts, and installing it onto my 04 D2. |
Thanks for the great writeup! This is on my to do list, and it took me forever to find this thread.
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This is going to come in handy when I replace the Cam and chain this week. Thank you!
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Still working on it. Had to rent a crank puller to get the HB out. Still have 1 more 11mm to find. |
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