Guys,
Isn't there an alignment problem which makes the gears crack in the first place?

Who is to say the new oil gear will not crack..
On the 2003, isn't it true that he has to fiddle with the alignment?

Is this the reference to the "new timing cover" at $500???

I saw a good thread on here a few weeks ago regarding alignment of the cover or some other parts which when originally assembled put undue stress on the oil pump gears..

 

Moxierover -

see https://landroverforums.com/forum/di...rite-up-48197/

You don't have to do top end. But you may want to. Also, an important point is that top end wear can impact oil PSI just like bottom end wear. The oil pressure comes into each rocker tower. If the rockers are worn, you won't get good oil PSI even at cranking. Here's some pix of lower end bearings, note copper showing; and valve train parts. One guy blocked off his valve train oil flow to "prove" that lower end was not the problem.

Oh, and here is backside of the front cover. Some say that you grind off the alignment studs and just go with the bolts. I don't have one, so I have not had the pleasure.

And while you can snag used rocker arm assembly at the junk yard, better take a micrometer. They get smoothed out on the inside. New is not out of sight and other old parts will clean up good.

 

Moxie,

I'd check your relief valve before digging into the engine. This is accesible without tearing into the motor, but will be hard to remove the cap (after removing the snap ring). I'd drill it a 1/4" dia, 1/4" deep and use an easy-out to try and help remove it - also use a heat gun on the alloy to warm it up and expand the housing as much as possible.
If this valve is sticking even slightly, it will do odd things like you have described. I definately reccomend anyone who has their front cover off for oil-pressure issues inspect the relief valve.

 

OK, I just changed the oil pump gears, main and rod bearings.. Here is my status:
Before - Ticking/knocking after warm up.. oil pressure cold 12idle,30@2000rpm.. hot oil light on <5psi idle 20psi @2000rpm
AFTER, no more ticking/knocking.. oil pressure cold 17 idle, 35psi @2000rpm hot no oil light <6psi idle 25 @2000rpm
oil pump outer gear was cracked and housing was scored. and bearings were shot. I am guessing with the power of hind sight my scoring was too severe and it just is not able to develop enough pressure....

 

Chris - your numbers still seem low. Might want to check gauge (accurate?) and or other things, like valve train mentioned above, Mann oil filter, etc.

 

It might not be; Gerotor pumps do need tight clearances to make high pressures, but not for operating at lower pressures. The numbers you are showing (and these engines run) don't fall into the high-pressure boundary, not in the slightest... Sure, a new pump is nice, but the pumping elements should have loads of reserve, even with scoring, gouging and general wear.

A tip for everyone in the future, is to put the gerotor in the cover, and put a straight edge over it - if you have less than 6 thou clearance, you're fine. Anything over 8 thou, and I'd look into finding a machineshop to tickle the cover for you to close the clearances down to a minimum...


I'd also reccomend you look at your relief valve (after checking gage is acurate). You might find a broken spring, or crap holding it open. An easy trick is to shim it a little with a few washers - see if that improves the pressure. If it makes no difference, then you know it's not the relief valve


After that. start looking inside the motor... I recall someone commenting that a cam bearing had dislolged - resulting in fluid being dumped out? It might be worth a look.

 

So I'm getting ready to tear back into the oil pan but before I do I was wondering if I should check the Cam bearings and rocker tower oil ports for issues first. I want to eliminate all possibilities before going after the crank and main bearings. Does anyone have a write up on cam bearing inspection, rocker towers, or the oil relieve valve. What would be the best order of operation to check before going after the bearings?

I just want to be sure its the lower end main and rod bearings before I go and spend the money and time replacing them. Thanks!!

 

Relief valve is one snap ring (in theory) to remove the cap, then wiggle out the spring and valve. If the valve is hard to remove, well, maybe just maybe, that is the problem... However, the cap might not come off very easily. If it doesn't, try a little heat from a blowlamp on the alloy (don't go mad, take your time and heat it up slowly)...
If it still doesn't come out, drill it a little and use an easy-out to wind it out.

This is totally easier than any of the other things you discussed.

As regards the cam - does anyone else recall the post about one of the cam bearings walking out and basically allowing the oil hole to be wide open and dump oil straight out? Not sure it was on here, Dweb or landroversonly ...

 

Turbodave do you reccommend removing the timing cover to do this? or would it be possible to do it while on the vehicle? THANKS!

 

you can take it out and check it while its on the car- once you get the snap ring out you are going to have to whack it with a big pin punch a few times till it pops out, note the direction of the plunger because if you put it in backwards you will have like 200 psi oil pressure.