So I just put Mobil 1 synthetic 5w-30 in my D2, when I changed the oil the other day. But I took a look in the manual and it calls for a rating of ACEA A2. The Mobil 1 synthetic is rated ACEA A1. Is this a problem?

 

Mobil 1 5w30 IMO is not suitable for a flat tappet engine designed in the 60's. It has low level of anti-wear additives as required by the newer oil specs for roller tappet engines. Most people who know oil don't rate Mobil 1 5w30 very highly, it is probably their highest volume oil and where they make their money so it is very "cost optimized", some of their other oils are much better at the same price or a bit more money. You are fine for now but next oil change switch over to any of the following synthetics: Mobil 1 5w40 TDT, Mobil 1 0w40. Rotella T6 5w40, Mobil Delvac 1 5w40, Mobil 1 10w40 HM, Mobil 1 10w40 truck and SUV, Rotella T5 10w30, castrol syntec 5w40, mobil 1 10w30 EP. There are obviously others too but you want either a heavy duty engine oil or a "european" oil.

 

What he said.

And Rotella is awesome.

 

Used Mobil 1 for a long time and have since switched to the Rotella synthetic also. Make sure you use a good filter like a Mobil 1-301 or a KYN 3001, both about 40% larger in size and filtering media.

 

Thanks. I was looking for an A2 rating at the store and could only find A1 or A3 and didn't know which one was better. It sure seems like the A1 rating would be best.


I'm pretty sure I checked all the oils and could not find an A2 rating. It was either A1 or A3.

My oil filter is a Cooper from AB.

 

A3 is a higher rated oil, but don't go crazy with this, buy a good oil and filter and change it every 3000 miles for regular oil and 5000 miles with synthetics.

 

All the oils I listed above are suited for our engines and even overkill but that is a good thing IMO. I don't think any carry an A2 rating but they have other better ratings. Oil ratings are funny and cost manufacturers money so in some cases even if an oil could meet the spec they will not get it tested for cost reasons or they may test to a "better" spec so so need to test for the lower spec. Most modern 5w30, 5w20 etc oils are energy conserving GF4 or GF5 oils that are made for modern engines that are easy on oil. With direct injection engines coming online now though oils have been beefed up a bit with the next API SN rating and GM dexos.

 

Also on the oil filters don't order them from AB get a Wix, napa gold, Mobil 1, Purlator Pure 1, or K&N. The larger filter model #s are: 1515, 51515, 301, PL30001, or 3001 respectively.

 

Maybe a silly question, but....

If I want to switch to synthetic oil on my next change, do I need to do anything special in the transition? Or, just drain the old "natural" oil and replace with new synthetic oil and a new filter? I would guess that there is a residual amount of the old oil and the system, even after draining it. Is that small amount a "don't care" issue?

 

There isn't really anything special to do. The only thing that might happen is that your engine might leak a little bit of oil for the first couple of oil changes. The gaskets have to get use to the synthetic oil.