UPDATE: Vibration. Had to take the intermediate shaft out. When I welded it I thought it would be straight. It wasn't, it was off .030 right where I welded it. I put it between 2 live centers and trued it to .002.

Welded transfer box solid to the mounts, It was moving around too much.

ABS/traction control, speedometer and fuel gauge work fine with no codes with all the gas engine and trans harnesses unplugged/removed.

It's ultra slow. I have to turn the injection pump and the turbo up.

 

very well done indeed

 

awesome.

 

so tired of feeding my 4.6 (like I miss my 2005 Suburban for it was a better mpg car).

I've lost my cats, if I were to do this swap, is it a safe assumption, that the CEL I currently have will be the same CEL I then have?

Gonna have to re-read this thread a handful of times to fully get it, but I have an idea of direction now.

I initially was thinking 4dd1t... But I like this idea better.

 

It's very possible to have more dash lights after this swap.

 

If I was to do this again, I would have fully divorced the transfer case and move it back as far as I can. I have been debugging vibration issues for 2 weeks. I tried 2 sets of motor mounts and mounted the transmission solid on a swivel (no rubber). Over 30MPH I have a oscillation either from the intermediate shaft, or harmonics from the motor. (sounds and feels like VRUM...VRUM....VRUM....VRUM). Really weird only happens under medium to heavy throttle, does not happen in neutral, does not happen with the trans in D and the transfer box in neutral, does not happen on down hill or coasting. At this point I think I may have a cylinder power balance issue. Motor idles and revs fine, lacks power and wont start without glow plugs. I'm doing a compression and leak down test tomorrow. I noticed the crank pulley had a wiggle to it, then I found the crank bolt was on there, but not nearly tight enough. I still have a bunch of loose ends to fix up, but I did put maybe 50 miles on it. Gas gauge didn't move.

 

Excellent achievement RoverMasterTech. It looks like it should always have been there, a real Houdini installation. Hopefully you'll get the vibes or harmonics under control, no, I'm sure you will with your tenacity. Think of the fuel you are gonna save and the insurance premium reduction, no doubt - all a bonus

 

Update. Have put over 1000 miles on it since conversion. If you want to do this yourself: Use 300d engine mounts, NOT disco mounts. divorce the transfer case and shorten rear/lengthen front drive shafts. You will need a body lift to fit the engine in with the stock oil pan. you will need a big suspension lift to use the stock oil pan. You need to weld the drive shaft stub to a universal joint yoke, and then weld the other side to the stub that goes in the t-case, thats where I was getting my vibration. Its really slow. I had a stack that went through the passenger fender and up over the roof but it made a horrendous whistle. I changed the turbo to a holset hx30w. I'm going to turn the fuel up and intercool it soon.

 

Question: If you can/allowed to install a Merc diesel into a D2 why is the TD5 not allowed in most states in the US, is it a homologation type approval issue or what ?

I'm genuinely interested to know.

 

It actually is legal in the us. The motor is no problem. Its the chassis and vin that is newer than 25 years that is not allowed.
We can put whatever motor we want in whatever we want, as long as its not a less than 25 year old foreign market vehicle.

I went with the merc engine because it was cheap.