Overheat Question
OK, ive read virtually every thread associated with radiators, overheating, and the everlasting "waterfall" but still have problems. This is what has been done and what im thinking is the problem. Any help is appreciated.
Had white smoke and sweet smell from exhaust so I had both heads milled and installed new head gaskets. Soon afterward, it overheated real bad. (May have warped the heads) Changed the thermostat twice but it keeps overheating. While running, the heater is blowing cold while at the some time the engine is overheating. Radiator hoses prior to the thermostat are hot but freezing cold aft. I think the waterpump is bad but could it be that Ive had 2 bad thermostats?
Had white smoke and sweet smell from exhaust so I had both heads milled and installed new head gaskets. Soon afterward, it overheated real bad. (May have warped the heads) Changed the thermostat twice but it keeps overheating. While running, the heater is blowing cold while at the some time the engine is overheating. Radiator hoses prior to the thermostat are hot but freezing cold aft. I think the waterpump is bad but could it be that Ive had 2 bad thermostats?
well no hot air from the heater and the water fall tells me their is air in you cooling system. this means you need to bleed the system. i would start their. fill the coolant res. lift it eight inches and open the bleed screw while the engine is running.
the bigger issue is did the red light come on? because if it does dont go far until this is figured out.
the bigger issue is did the red light come on? because if it does dont go far until this is figured out.
Oh I would not ever want that light to come on at 284F. 235 is enough to warp heads if it stays there for a while. Heads should not be warped if they were milled and HG done right (that would mean not under my shade tree). Low coolant makes the waterfall sound, and steamy air makes poor heat. Would check temp with an OBDII connected scanner (like Ultra Gauge, etc.) that can see live data (coolant temp). A 180F stat is available, but use real LR, not motobad.
Factory temp gauge is designed to point at 50% from about 130-240F. It is not to be trusted.
Factory temp gauge is designed to point at 50% from about 130-240F. It is not to be trusted.
Bled system yet again and let idle until radiator hose got hot. Still no warm air inside car, no "waterfall" noise, hoses to/from heater core remained cool, and lower radiator hose was cool. Let everything cool, then pulled thermostat off. The radiator fluid recovered had flecks of metal. This is obviously not good; any thoughts where the metal is coming from?
how long have you had it? is it possible that the metal your seeing is from that Barrs crap or something similar, they all seem to throw aluminum or copper particles in them. have you try flushing the heater core?
Ive had it for about 1 1/2 years and have never used any additives or sealants, not to say that someone else didnt. Radiator flushing is next on my list. When I took the water pump off, the radiator fluid collected was around 2 gallons so that should have been enough to keep it from overheating. Still confused.
have you ruled out a cracked block, do you have any coolant in your oil, is you fan on backwards. do a complete flush but at some point the constant overheating is just gonna give you a boat anchor. Good luck
i went through same thing with my disco, i used a vacuum tool to bleed the air from the coolant system to no avail. replaced head gaskets thermostat and water pump. i ended up buying a used engine since i feel that there is a leak between the block and cylinder sleeves.


