I dumped all my coolant due to a broken hose yesterday, I stopped almost immediately, but am afraid I may have done some damage. At idle I now get a very loud clatter, almost like a lifter noise but louder and not as consistent.

The culprit was the rigid return hose from the rad back to the reservoir. I hose clamped a piece of air hose I had lying around to connect it and get it running again. What have others done when replacing this piece of hose, move to rubber hose or replace with the same rigid type? Is the rigid type something that you can get anywhere and bend to suit, or do you have to get it from Land Rover pre-bent?

Thanks in advance

 

I've replaced mine with a factory one. As well as the other plastic hose from the throttle body heater to the overflow tank.

I had temporarily used some heater hose, but I wasn't convinced that it was going to be a long term solution due to abrasion from vibration and what it would be laying against/zip tied to.

The radiator return line goes under the upper fan shroud, if I recall. I don't think you'll find rubber hose with a sufficient inner diameter that will fit under there.

 

Snapped mine a while back and used the rubber hose as well, used a 1/4" and it fit snug under the fan shroud. 1/4" is tight on the Rad extension you put it on, if you are going to take it off you need to cut it and not try to pull it, I use the type that had the strings in it as it is tougher. I did replace it a week later with the Factory one, its less than $20, didn't have a good reason like Daryl, just figured that is how LR designed it.
I have thought of changing the one from the TB Heater to the Overflow Tank to Rubber Hose, mine is still in good shape, but everytime I raise my Tank to bleed the system I am scared I will brake it. I think it is weird to make that hose rigid when you are going to move it around so much.

 

I used 3/8" because that's what had the right inner diameter....or at least the closest. It doesn't fit at all (under the fan shroud).

Yeah really. But typical of so many cars. They just aren't designed for service. They are designed to go together easy on the assembly line and last their warranty period. Past that, you're on your own.

 

That's why you replace the tube before it becomes so brittle it might break! :P

 

No its good, I think it was replaced prior to purchasing the truck, looks really new, but it would be nice if I did not have to worry about it getting too brittle to break...

 

Thanks guys, should have checked with LR first, I assumed it was going to be overpriced $20 is well worth having the genuine part, it is on order.

 

You need to be alot more concerned with your now, noisey engine then the replacement of a cost.
Are you mechanical enough to track down the noise?

 

Disco Mike: The noise went away after she cooled down and I topped up the coolant. Interestingly I got a new code that I haven't seen before about 100 miles after the overheating incident, I got a P0441 trouble code (no SES light yet), I have read it could be vacuum lines or the purge valve. I have parked her until the weekend when I can get in and have a better look. Do you think the overheat and new code are connected?

 

441 is an incorrect purge flow.