I'm pretty sure he's drunk posting. Take a look at some others recently.

I wouldn't give him a second thought.

You likely will regret that decision, unless you've paid almost nothing for the truck. If you paid a fair price for a good running truck and ended up with this truck, you were ripped off.

It's obvious you aren't yet aware of just how many things could be wrong at this point from an unknown amount of overheating. Yes, I said you need a radiator, because that is likely the root cause. Then you have to deal with the secondary problems caused by the overheating so far. How long are your head gaskets going to last? The hoses? How far are the heads going to need to be decked, because they'll probably be significantly warped? Has one ore more cylinder liners gotten loose after the overheating?

Not telling you to return the truck based on your introduction here would be doing you a disservice. Once abused, these trucks are unreliable money pits. Properly maintained, they are great.

So if you paid little enough to be worth putting a radiator and a motor in it, you did fine. You probably won't need to go that far, but you know your worst case is covered. If you paid more than that, you paid too much.

 

I haven't seen the write up on "once in a blue moon missfire: how to diagnose a failing coil with an oscilloscope" Or "the simple way to isolate suspension noise with a chassis ear" or "Ho w to rid that pesky EVAPS code with TESTBOOK and a smoke machine" You wont find those write ups because you cant fix that stuff without 50k of tools. Dude, the guy bought the disco because it was CHEAP AND HIS FRIENDS WILL THINK HE'S COOL, not because he likes the brand or that its a nice truck.

 

Where did he say fuel economy was an issue? YOUR opinion....

He said 45 miles. With your math, that would mean he was doing 90mph

So you're upset with fixing other Disco's and you come here to vent your frustration?

Yup.... what we're here for. BTW: it's called a F O R U M.

Did you get banned from d-web and this is the only place that hasn't blocked your IP???

BTW: DUDE, see that triangle in the upper right corner of your post that says "report this post"? Guess what????

Eric

 

Coming from my experience. I had the exact same issue as what you described(over heating w/increased speed). The underlying issue was a bad head gasket. Changing the coolant and t-stat will slow it down a bit. But eventually, as in my case your truck will **** coolant. Take a good look around those head gaskets.

 

/this

Start with a proper coolant flush and refill (get the water out of there). By doing this your enabling yourself to learn some basics right there.

Then post again as to how it runs and we can tell you what to check next. Worse case scenario is you have a bad head gasket, but that's fixable yourself if you have another car/truck to drive while you replace the gaskets via a kit (it will take ya a few free weekends - it's top end engine work only though).

Don't be afraid. It's just a old V8 truck with a over complex coolant system ("pig in a prom dress"). It's not rocket science. Don't let these guys scare ya.

 

Dear Fans,

I am a new owner of a LR Disco 1 1998 Model. Lately i took it out for a desert drive on two reprisals and in the two outings I had the following:
Reference to the above subject and analysing what had happened with me the first and second time drive on two consecutive weekends Leads to the same symptoms pressure buildup due to over heating! But yet the thermostat not showing up. First time the pressure had find its way out through the weakest point which was the old hose and get burst releasing all the coolant , solved the problem by putting a Bondage, replace with drinking water till I reached the Garage some 100Km away from our desert drive and get replaced the hose (mutiple hose with 3 inlets Rad/ Engine/Collant Tank). The second time was from the coolant pressure cap lid itself, after being stuck in desert and used my low gear to find may way out between desert dunes I heard a splashing noise , jumped out and saw coolant dripping like hell down on golden desert sand, I thought I lost my radiator figuring that I hit something but it was coming out from the presure lid, yet temperature is stable, continued the trip and been out safely but not confortable about it. Today I checked coolant in the aux tank and it was empty on (cold) before starting the engine , checked oil and transmition oil everything is normal. So it seems I need to replace the Radiator but what about the thermostat not reflecting high temperature? Should I replace that first and monitor again or just do it. Please advise on suitable hassle free Radiator for my Goldy. Specially we have a 3 days long weekend and I am pretty sure that there will be loads of trips planned. Do you suggest a Recored or Just replace with an aftermarket one??

 

Just heads up, the thermostat is not the temp gauge, it is the part that regulates coolant flow in the truck, on a DII it is the artificial heart looking thing beside the fan on the passenger's side, don't know what it looks like on a DI, and replacing it would be a good place to start with the issue, along with a flush and swap to green coolant. Search for radiator posts and some guys use a generic one they get off ebay for around $130.

 

Thanks DiscoBenjamin, you are right, Thermostat is different, they checked the Thermostat and they removed it being in a Hot Country 39-50 degrees cellcius as well as being rusted. I am already on Green Coolant from day one that I bought the car. Now what about the Temp Guauge is it reflecting the real temp of engine as I can't notice any change in the gauge, when sgtarting up it goes from 0 and after 10 minutes drive start worming up till slightly less than Half and never goes higher even when going for 1 hrs drive at 140Km per hour 45 degrees outside temp with full AC blast nothing same temp!!! I will check on the Rad today, my be they will open to check component , as it might be clooged. What do you think!

 

Your observations are exactly correct: the temp gauge on the dash is not a gauge. It's basically a gauge-shaped indicator light. It shows cold (down), somewhere between 165F and 230F (center), and way too hot and too late (above center).

Your best bet is to view OBD II live data for the coolant temperature (using a computer or something like a SacnGauge II) or to put in an external coolant temp gauge if you want a real coolant temperature reading.

 

Just to clarify what Daryl is saying is that the Temp Gauge in the Disco has a really wide temperature tolerance, so small movements on the needle mean huge changes in temperature, and by the time the needle has pushed above the centerline, you have already overheated. Just to confirm, are you saying that the needle was pegged at the centerline during all of your coolant explosions?