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  #11  
Old 06-18-2019, 05:11 AM
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Yeah. But the guy said he lives in Texas. When he gets his problem fixed I would think a 180 is a better fit for texas. I run the 180 in Nebraska and my temps run at 188.6 but in the summer.
 
  #12  
Old 06-19-2019, 12:42 PM
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I don’t live in Texas. I am military and moving from Alaska where I had no cooling problems to Alabama. The problem showed up in Texas when temperatures got in the 90’s for the first time. The auxiliary fan is working every time the air-conditioner comes on. I don’t have a fan clutch but my 3,300 cfm electric fan comes on at around 190F. It seems to show up on hot days at highway speed‘s or not at all.

Next will be flushing the radiator unless someone has a different solution I could try.
 
  #13  
Old 06-19-2019, 01:17 PM
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I have successfully removed radiator end tanks and flushed tubes before, the lower 20% are commonly plugged if original.
 
  #14  
Old 06-19-2019, 03:27 PM
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The problem with E-Fans for the engine = all depends on the CFM of the E-Fan and how the shroud is made. I’ve had experience with E-Fans before & honestly they aren’t all they’re cracked up to be. I had nearly a 500.00 setup on my H3 Alpha with a 5.3L V8 & it was “supposed” to be a performance upgrade (it did take the load off the engine), but better cooling than the OEM setup = it was not. I nearly fried a perfectly good V8 when on a trip just like you (on my way to my brothers wedding) temps went from the normal 195-215F range to 237F!!! I tried removing skid plates, pulling over & letting it cool down however it kept climbing. It only stopped & went down when I encountered some rain.

It was setup thru the OEM PCM to come on at 195F, but the shroud didn’t center the E-Fan and it had spots that didn’t let the air flow. Slapped on the OEM setup & I eventually found a fan blade that pulled more air. I wasn’t able to get my $$$ and I tossed the setup in the trash vs passing it onto someone else & have them overheat as well.

Funny thing was PCM of NC where I got the setup from changed the design a few months later......

On a D2 I have much more faith in a Hayden 2991 fan clutch & new Dorman 620-112 fan blade.
 
  #15  
Old 06-19-2019, 03:54 PM
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I’ve had this 3,300 cfm fan for seven years...2 in St. Louis (90’s), two in Turkey (100’s) and 3 in Alaska (80’s). Never had a problem. I used the top half of the OEM fan shroud and tucked the fan (comes with its own slightly smaller shroud) inside of that. This helps direct the airflow and keeps the upper radiator hose routing secure.

Not saying it couldn’t be the fan, but if it was it would be because it’s no longer performing like it used to.
 
  #16  
Old 06-19-2019, 04:19 PM
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I’m gonna go with it’s just TX lol. Only excuse I could come up with when my 06 LR3’s sunroof decided to just explode on a normal temp day!
 
  #17  
Old 06-21-2019, 04:06 PM
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Just had the radiator flushed. Will take it on the highway on a hot day and see how it does. MTF.

Does adding things like water wetter to the coolant help?
 
  #18  
Old 06-21-2019, 08:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan7
Just had the radiator flushed. Will take it on the highway on a hot day and see how it does. MTF.

Does adding things like water wetter to the coolant help?
I never noticed an improvement with water wetter. I have fans from an ‘05 GTO in mine and it performs the same as the stock viscous clutch fan did as far as I can tell from scan gauge.

How old is your fan? Could it be at the end of its life cycle? Connections are good?
 
  #19  
Old 06-22-2019, 09:02 AM
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6 years, but I’ve only put on 20,000 miles in that time . Yes, connections are good
 
  #20  
Old 06-22-2019, 01:01 PM
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Originally Posted by Dan7
6 years, but I’ve only put on 20,000 miles in that time . Yes, connections are good
Well, it could be the water pump, is it leaking? Maybe take the belt off and make sure it is in good knick?
 


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