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I was driving pretty aggressively in city traffic last weekend, mid 80s, and the gauge went about 75% of the way up until I turned off the AC and drove modestly until it was back to normal. I run the low temp tstat, new fluid, water pump, everything except the radiator. Doubt it is original.
yesterday, after some short driving, the aux fan stayed on for another 20 min after shutdown. First time that has happened in a long time, only mid 80s temp.
You need an ultra gauge or other real time OBDII temp reader. At 225F, The stock temperature sensor won’t budge from dead center, so you were somewhere over that.
I have this device that show the temp. It connects to the readout connector. Works really well. If any of would like details i can take a pic during the day with the manufactuerer and model number.
OK, so I’ve replaced the coolant reservoir cap and thermostat and flush the system with no change. I think the next step is replacing the electric fan which I think just can’t keep up. Any recommendations as to where I could screw in a temperature sensor? I have secondary air so I can’t use that port on the radiator unless I get a T fitting or something.
Another option is to use the petcock screw from the in-line thermostat mod. If I remove the screw it should be able to fit a temperature sender. But I would lose the option to bleed the cooling system from that point which has been handy but not a requirement. Thoughts?
I think the next step is replacing the electric fan which I think just can’t keep up.
Again, the fan has nothing to do with cooling at highway speeds. The problem is either an inefficient (i.e. clogged) radiator, a water pump that's not pumping well enough (highly unlikely) or the thermostat.
proper fitting of the radiator shroud all the way around matters - my lower clips were undone fixing that dropped my temps by 5 Deg F -down to 183 ish for 188 ish
A functional AC electrical fan helps but only if you have the AC running. My wife and I went for a drive, she likes AC and I actually heard the fan running when I got out to move a largish downed branch. If that fan is non functional and you run AC you will run hotter
It could be your electric fan as the brushes wear they become less efficient, but I would think an automotive fan would be good for 5+ years easy
I run the dorman / hayden setup and have very few issues
OK, so I’ve replaced the coolant reservoir cap and thermostat and flush the system with no change. I think the next step is replacing the electric fan which I think just can’t keep up. Any recommendations as to where I could screw in a temperature sensor? I have secondary air so I can’t use that port on the radiator unless I get a T fitting or something.
Another option is to use the petcock screw from the in-line thermostat mod. If I remove the screw it should be able to fit a temperature sender. But I would lose the option to bleed the cooling system from that point which has been handy but not a requirement. Thoughts?
