Overheating on the highway
#11
#12
Check coolant level. Bleed the system. Did you check the fan?
I'd be wary driving it without this problem being solved. Don't want to ruin an engine, heads, head gasket
#13
And could also be bad connection between engine coolant temp (ECT) sensor and ECU. From RAVE:
Coolant sensor is between AC compressor and alternator on top of motor. Check connector and wiring. If a scanner is attached, temp should read ambient when first cranked in morning, not -40F, etc.
If the engine coolant temperature gauge receives no input or the input is out of range the
temperature gauge will read cold and the high coolant temperature warning lamp will be illuminated.Coolant sensor is between AC compressor and alternator on top of motor. Check connector and wiring. If a scanner is attached, temp should read ambient when first cranked in morning, not -40F, etc.
#14
Seeing that it was over heating on the highway doing like 80 Mph I am sure the fan wouldn't be doing much in any case.
When the light came on this morning the engine has only been runing for about a minute or 2. I would think that it wouldn't even be warmed up enough to over heat.
What are signs of a bad water pump? What are signs of a bad radiator?
#15
And could also be bad connection between engine coolant temp (ECT) sensor and ECU. From RAVE:
Coolant sensor is between AC compressor and alternator on top of motor. Check connector and wiring. If a scanner is attached, temp should read ambient when first cranked in morning, not -40F, etc.
If the engine coolant temperature gauge receives no input or the input is out of range the
temperature gauge will read cold and the high coolant temperature warning lamp will be illuminated.Coolant sensor is between AC compressor and alternator on top of motor. Check connector and wiring. If a scanner is attached, temp should read ambient when first cranked in morning, not -40F, etc.
#16
#17
I have just ordered a coolant temperature sensor because it does seem like it could be faulty as it seems weird that it's so erratic all of a sudden. The fact that the light was telling me it was over heated after being on for a minute or two, and the fact that it resets it self by cycling the ignition makes it seem more likely a sensor.
I am all up for other ideas, and input, and I greatly appreciate all your help, and will let you know the outcome for future reference.
I am all up for other ideas, and input, and I greatly appreciate all your help, and will let you know the outcome for future reference.
#18
Do I have to take anything off to get to it? Should it be straight forward?
#19
That is an important point, becuase if there is a steam pocket inside, it is a lot cooler in the steam than in the hot water. Don't try it at home with pasta on the stove.
As for bad WP, frequently they begin to leak out the nose, and/or wobble the pulley. Flow testing is iffy, they produce 2.64 gallons per minute flow at 1000 rpm. As for radiator, clogs seem to take place on the lower rows due to settling of crud and Dexmud (dexcool sludge), the lower rows close off, and are much cooler (by 10F or more) from the top rows. Feel fins by hand or use IR thermometer.
Pix of worn out WP, aftermarket WP with larger bronze impeller, dexmud in radiator.
Based on just observations of the temp gauge, you can crawl up in temp over time, while computer driven gauge stays at 50% over a very wide range. One day, your temps are no longer in the "good" range, so they pop up. With scanner or Ultra Gauge you could have seen this coming.
As for bad WP, frequently they begin to leak out the nose, and/or wobble the pulley. Flow testing is iffy, they produce 2.64 gallons per minute flow at 1000 rpm. As for radiator, clogs seem to take place on the lower rows due to settling of crud and Dexmud (dexcool sludge), the lower rows close off, and are much cooler (by 10F or more) from the top rows. Feel fins by hand or use IR thermometer.
Pix of worn out WP, aftermarket WP with larger bronze impeller, dexmud in radiator.
Based on just observations of the temp gauge, you can crawl up in temp over time, while computer driven gauge stays at 50% over a very wide range. One day, your temps are no longer in the "good" range, so they pop up. With scanner or Ultra Gauge you could have seen this coming.
#20