Overheating my idling - could air in the system *really* cause this?
Man, frustrating. Coolant is always flowing through the heater core, so probably not that? Assuming the cooling system is well sorted out overall, this is textbook example of a bad fan clutch. I'll let you know if that ends up being the case for me. I hope it is? Because I just want this fixed. But IF it's indeed the solution, I'll be so frustrated too that this is just yet another new part that died prematurely. Add it to the list of wheel hubs, water pumps, ball joints, etc.
What’s crazy is last weekend when I took it out and played for a few minutes fairly close to the house it idled for probably close to 20 minutes and didn’t get over 195 while I aired up the tires. I’ve also done some non-scientific testing and let it idle in the driveway from time to time and might climb to 197 or even 201 and then go back to 194 or 195. The moment I put it in gear before the end of the driveway it’s at 188.
All that tells me the water pump is good too (I have a flowkooler sitting on a shelf for if that becomes an issue). The last thing I’m going to check is the return hose to the radiator and keep trying to burp it some more (it sat overnight ad a pretty good incline with the cap loose and I just went out and checked it and it looks like the level dropped a bit, which tells me there might have been some bubbles in there. I have zero coolant loss either. I did have some drips from the TB heater and even have one on the shelf at the ready for install (I was terrified it was a head gasket until I traced- and yes I’ve done the exhaust gas test to double check), but that has more or less self healed. I do wonder at times if there is a mild clog in the system…
So I’ve been letting it run for 20 minutes or so with the heater on after taking it off the incline. It won’t go over 194. If I rev it barely over 1k, it drops to 183 or 185 in 10 seconds or so.
I think it was bubbles.
Of note, I am still getting a scoshe of a water rush sound when I touch the throttle. Any ideas?
I think it was bubbles.
Of note, I am still getting a scoshe of a water rush sound when I touch the throttle. Any ideas?
I just got back from a drive. It’s behaving perfectly again. It won’t get up to 201 at lights and when it got to 195 at a light it was at 188 at the other side of the intersection. Problem solved.
For Brandon, I say you have bubbles. Try what I did if you can and let it sit overnight.
Another method Tom from GBR told me (and only do this if you are comfortable doing it) is to pull the cap and plug up the overflow hose and actually blow in the expansion tank while cracking the bleed screw at the main junction. I’ve done that on all the other Discos and it worked perfectly. This is the first Disco I’ve had issues bleeding.
For Brandon, I say you have bubbles. Try what I did if you can and let it sit overnight.
Another method Tom from GBR told me (and only do this if you are comfortable doing it) is to pull the cap and plug up the overflow hose and actually blow in the expansion tank while cracking the bleed screw at the main junction. I’ve done that on all the other Discos and it worked perfectly. This is the first Disco I’ve had issues bleeding.
I just got back from a drive. It’s behaving perfectly again. It won’t get up to 201 at lights and when it got to 195 at a light it was at 188 at the other side of the intersection. Problem solved.
For Brandon, I say you have bubbles. Try what I did if you can and let it sit overnight.
Another method Tom from GBR told me (and only do this if you are comfortable doing it) is to pull the cap and plug up the overflow hose and actually blow in the expansion tank while cracking the bleed screw at the main junction. I’ve done that on all the other Discos and it worked perfectly. This is the first Disco I’ve had issues bleeding.
For Brandon, I say you have bubbles. Try what I did if you can and let it sit overnight.
Another method Tom from GBR told me (and only do this if you are comfortable doing it) is to pull the cap and plug up the overflow hose and actually blow in the expansion tank while cracking the bleed screw at the main junction. I’ve done that on all the other Discos and it worked perfectly. This is the first Disco I’ve had issues bleeding.
Reporting back - I removed the TBH, tested again, and temps are holding solid between 190 and 194 now at idle. The leaking TBH was letting just enough air in the system to create an air bubble, which I guess was the cause. Glad to have my faith in new disco parts somewhat restored with the cause not being the recently-replaced fan.
Why are you guys still messing with the factory thermostat system. Proven unreliable, difficult to bleed, and causes issues like this. Get an inline and you will never worry about any of this crap again.
Last edited by dtmbinb; Oct 19, 2022 at 08:54 AM.
But I also have never had appreciable issues with the OEM design- unless I screwed something up, and since mine is not a daily, I can live with it. If in the future I end up in the system again, I’ll be doing an in line, but I suspect I’m good for a couple years or so.
I did drive it to work this morning and it went to 201 at a long light. Otherwise it wasn’t over 188 during the whole drive and the heat was on the whole way.


