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Overheating In spite of a new Cooling System

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  #11  
Old 08-14-2014, 04:31 PM
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I do have the grey one, which I removed when I bought it and noticed this vehicle running hotter than any other vehicle which I owed. The temps are little lower but generally there has been no difference from the pre-expenditures......
 
  #12  
Old 08-14-2014, 04:31 PM
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probably don't help but I just check mine after an hour drive and had temps of 159 and 136 at the upper and lower hoses using and IRT. that is with a stock t-stat and radiator.
also the belt CAN be routed the wrong way and still fit, more than one truck has found this iirc.
 

Last edited by drowssap; 08-14-2014 at 04:58 PM.
  #13  
Old 08-14-2014, 04:48 PM
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I was chasing an overheating problem myself...

Something is amiss with all the new parts which you have in the system, assuming they were installed correctly. Your temps appears to be way too high, especially with the 180-deg thermostat. Plus, you indicate no coolant loss at all. It does not appear to be a HG issue if you are no losing coolant.

I fixed my overheating problem (new water pump, new viscous fan, new radiator and LR geniune 180-deg thermostat). I am seeing 194-deg @ highway speeds with a/c. Idle temp is 188-deg (without a/c) and 194-deg to 197-deg (with a/c at 80-deg to 90-deg ambient temp). I hope this will be useful reference.
 

Last edited by acg; 08-14-2014 at 06:20 PM.
  #14  
Old 08-14-2014, 05:12 PM
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P/S.

A few things to check considering you have all these new parts and assuming everything is installed correctly. Here are some things which came to my mind which was not indicated in your original post:

1) Did you use the right coolant (i.e., if you bought concentrated mix... did you mix 50/50 with distilled water)?

2) Try a new coolant cap (aka inexpensive)

3) Follow the proper procedure per RAVE.

4) Check to see if serpentine belts are routed correctly and the viscous fan is sucking in air into the engine bay rather than outwards?

5) Check the a/c condenser to make sure the fins are not clogged. This will hinder airflow to the radiator behind it.

6) How much RTV was used to seal the water pump gasket? Perhaps there is inadvertent blockage from the new gasket (i.e., gasket moved unnecessarily when tightening up the bolts? or excess RTV going into water inlet passage?)
 
  #15  
Old 08-14-2014, 05:45 PM
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Thanks ACG. I have mixed Water Wetter, with 50/50 and distilled water.
Yes, I have a new coolant cap.
Followed RAVE.
Serpentine belt was installed as per RAVE.
The Fan blows Air forward!
Will check the condenser.
I installed a new water pump two nights ago. The old gasket looked fine from the old unit looked fine and the new gasket with the new pump has not made any difference. .

The fan?? Now I am perplexed. I raised up my three year old to feel the air from the fan last night and the air was being pushed forward towards the rad. PS. Out of abundance of caution, I checked the belt. It is on correctly. The fan is off the truck right now, as I was preparing to disassemble.
 

Last edited by kdscott100; 08-14-2014 at 06:56 PM.
  #16  
Old 08-14-2014, 07:57 PM
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The engine driven fan should pull air through the radiator and condsenser from the front to back, the electric fan pushes air from the front to the back through the radiator and condenser, you want to make sure this is the case on your truck
 
  #17  
Old 08-14-2014, 10:16 PM
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The mechanical fan would only blow the wrong way if the belt was on wrong. Double check that routing.


Can that kid find vacuum leaks too? I'm chasing an evap code. Might need to borrow him.
 
  #18  
Old 08-14-2014, 10:49 PM
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Why are you filling through the bleed screw? The expansion tank lifted up will be the highest point and the best place to add coolant from.

No need to lift on the passenger side of the vehicle. Level ground is the best in my opinion. Make sure the tank is the highest point and let gravity do it's job. If you are not hearing the waterfall sound behind the glove box when you drive then you do not have air in the system and improper bleeding is not your high temp issue.

Ditch the Motorad and go with the genuine grey 180. My Motorad would idle at 204.6 and sometimes hit 206 on hot days in stopped traffic, so your temps seem normal for that T-Stat. I think that replacing anything else before that motorad is a waste of money.
 
  #19  
Old 08-15-2014, 05:34 AM
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The Fan blows Air forward!
that is incorrect all fans should be sucking air across the condenser and radiator, not blow in out. any fan blowing out is only going to push the heat back into the radiator or condenser when the vehicle moves.
 
  #20  
Old 08-15-2014, 07:26 AM
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Originally Posted by drowssap
The Fan blows Air forward!
that is incorrect all fans should be sucking air across the condenser and radiator, not blow in out. any fan blowing out is only going to push the heat back into the radiator or condenser when the vehicle moves.
Good eye, I didn't even catch that he said that.

Take a paper towel and put it up by the front grill. It should suck the paper towel in toward the radiator. If the air blows the paper towel then you have a problem.
 

Last edited by Jared9220; 08-16-2014 at 08:05 AM.


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