The stats are made the same way they've always been. It's not the stats, idc who you are.

Why can everyone else install the same stat over and over but yet certain people have issues with 2-3-4 of them? It's not the stat. Think about it.

Next time anyone has a new stat problem, put your money where your mouth is and send it to me...or send it to best4x4. Make sure you mark it somewhere so you know it's the same one when I install it. I'll even pay shipping...but, if I get it to work, you pay shipping.

Instead if thinking you just happened to hope you got all the air out when you opened the little bleeder, why not keep trying different methods until your temps are around 197-201? Also, dont get your panties in a wad when the temps climb to 220 initially.

 

cool.
other than the bleeding method outlined in rave, or the aforementioned + jacking upfront of rover, what other methods would you suggest?

 

If doing a thermostat install remove upper hose to radiator from the T, DO NOT have the thermostat installed yet. Pour coolant into upper hose until it flows out of the lower hose, install thermostat, all other hoses, fill with coolant, let it run until 195-200F, then let it cool down a bit, fill thru the bleeder, top off, let it run again, then let it cool, top off once more, and then drive it. Works every single time for me without any magic tricks.

I did another trip to Austin, TX this weekend to help some LR buddies, and I saw 188-193F for most of the trip, then up to 205-209F in the hills/traffic. Once free of all that I was back into the 188-193F range.

One main thing I’ve noticed lately on some customers D2’s = restricted coolant flow thru the heater core. They still produced heat output however coolant flow was poor & so was there system at being effective. 6.00 in 5/8 line, and after a flush = no more weird issues with coolant spikes. D2’s aren’t getting any younger and it only takes 30min more to flush the heater core.

 

 

I'm not trying to be rude in any sense.. but usually the people that say that are the same people that say they have bad stats...I can see 1 or 2 from multiple people, but for the same guy to get three bad stats from multiple companies...

Do you still have them?

 

 

I had two bad OEM genuine 180 gray stats this past year. They would open, but temps were 8-10 degrees higher across the board. They were either opening very late, or only partially. The wax in the stat internally may have been a bad batch. Also, if the plastic molding is uneven the stat metal can drag as it opens, thus partial opening. It does happen. I can assure you that I know how to bleed the system...on a steep hill, raised tank, top off through the bleed screw for a few days until no more room for coolant. Fact is there has been a lot of bad stats lately. It is not all user error. When I have had genuine 180 stats produce 188-210, a genuine 180 that will only run 198-218 is not acceptable. I am not concerned with anything below 210, and my truck never overheated, but I had one genuine 180 that was running 203-216 out of the box. Took it out to check the port holes, clean. Reinstalled and bled, same results. New stat, 8-10 degrees lower across the board. Some stats are not up to par. Will the truck overheat? Probably not. By why pay for a genuine 180 that behaves that way?

 

ok, so checked the coolant level this am, and it wasn't down.
idled the rover in my driveway for 20 minutes w/ the OBDII attached, and after about 5 minutes it stayed steady at 203.
i think the stock tstat open at 200 yes? if that's the case i think I can assume that there's no air left in it. will do another drive test w/ the OBDII after it cools down a bit

 

Actually you don't ever "assume" there is no air left in it... Why assume when you can know!!

When it is cold before you start it in the morning open the bleed screw and see if there is no air in it. If you can add any coolant through the bleed hole then there was air... Add the small amount of coolant into the bleed hole and replace the screw. If you are really concerned about a stubborn air bubble park uphill in the evening then check the bleed hole in the morning.

Check again the next morning and so on until there is no room for more coolant in the bleed hole.

You are close! Keep up the good work!

 

Ahhhh....see....success!!! Do what was said above. Drive it, watch the temps. Shut it off and let it cool, recheck.