Overheats when idling, fan clutch?
I piggy backed on Spike's thread about Blue Devil a couple of days ago but thought that I would start a new thread with some new specific info.
I have a 2000 DII 128k. At speed the temp is right at mid-line. Occasionally, when I come to a stop light or stop and idle, the temp will climb. The first time that I noticed it was last Friday. It has done it several times since.
I changed out the coolant, thermostat, water pump and swapped out the fan clutch with what was described as a "good" used one. Leaving the shop, the temp climbed again at the first stop light. Today when I pulled into my parking garage, it did it again, the a/c was on and the a/c condensor fan was working. I increased the idle to 2500 rpms and the temp dropped to normal after about 60 seconds. I shut the truck down and popped the hood and rotated the fan. It didn't freewheel but there wasn't much resistance, a little more the my old one but it definitley wasn't hard and tight or locked up by any means.
When a fan clutch is working properly, will it lock up or be very tight when the engine is at normal operating temp?
I am baffled. I don't what to keep throwing money at this truck. I did note that others have used alternative fan clutches from Autozone or Kragen (there was a detailed thread on Discoweb), sometimes having to drill out the fan holes to accomodate a 10mm bolt. Has anyone here had success with using one of those fan clutches? Prices seemed to range in the $60 to $80 range vs. $225 from AB.
Thanks in advance. Phil
2000 DII 128k
I have a 2000 DII 128k. At speed the temp is right at mid-line. Occasionally, when I come to a stop light or stop and idle, the temp will climb. The first time that I noticed it was last Friday. It has done it several times since.
I changed out the coolant, thermostat, water pump and swapped out the fan clutch with what was described as a "good" used one. Leaving the shop, the temp climbed again at the first stop light. Today when I pulled into my parking garage, it did it again, the a/c was on and the a/c condensor fan was working. I increased the idle to 2500 rpms and the temp dropped to normal after about 60 seconds. I shut the truck down and popped the hood and rotated the fan. It didn't freewheel but there wasn't much resistance, a little more the my old one but it definitley wasn't hard and tight or locked up by any means.
When a fan clutch is working properly, will it lock up or be very tight when the engine is at normal operating temp?
I am baffled. I don't what to keep throwing money at this truck. I did note that others have used alternative fan clutches from Autozone or Kragen (there was a detailed thread on Discoweb), sometimes having to drill out the fan holes to accomodate a 10mm bolt. Has anyone here had success with using one of those fan clutches? Prices seemed to range in the $60 to $80 range vs. $225 from AB.
Thanks in advance. Phil
2000 DII 128k
I piggy backed on Spike's thread about Blue Devil a couple of days ago but thought that I would start a new thread with some new specific info.
I have a 2000 DII 128k. At speed the temp is right at mid-line. Occasionally, when I come to a stop light or stop and idle, the temp will climb. The first time that I noticed it was last Friday. It has done it several times since.
I changed out the coolant, thermostat, water pump and swapped out the fan clutch with what was described as a "good" used one. Leaving the shop, the temp climbed again at the first stop light. Today when I pulled into my parking garage, it did it again, the a/c was on and the a/c condensor fan was working. I increased the idle to 2500 rpms and the temp dropped to normal after about 60 seconds. I shut the truck down and popped the hood and rotated the fan. It didn't freewheel but there wasn't much resistance, a little more the my old one but it definitley wasn't hard and tight or locked up by any means.
When a fan clutch is working properly, will it lock up or be very tight when the engine is at normal operating temp?
I am baffled. I don't what to keep throwing money at this truck. I did note that others have used alternative fan clutches from Autozone or Kragen (there was a detailed thread on Discoweb), sometimes having to drill out the fan holes to accomodate a 10mm bolt. Has anyone here had success with using one of those fan clutches? Prices seemed to range in the $60 to $80 range vs. $225 from AB.
Thanks in advance. Phil
2000 DII 128k
I have a 2000 DII 128k. At speed the temp is right at mid-line. Occasionally, when I come to a stop light or stop and idle, the temp will climb. The first time that I noticed it was last Friday. It has done it several times since.
I changed out the coolant, thermostat, water pump and swapped out the fan clutch with what was described as a "good" used one. Leaving the shop, the temp climbed again at the first stop light. Today when I pulled into my parking garage, it did it again, the a/c was on and the a/c condensor fan was working. I increased the idle to 2500 rpms and the temp dropped to normal after about 60 seconds. I shut the truck down and popped the hood and rotated the fan. It didn't freewheel but there wasn't much resistance, a little more the my old one but it definitley wasn't hard and tight or locked up by any means.
When a fan clutch is working properly, will it lock up or be very tight when the engine is at normal operating temp?
I am baffled. I don't what to keep throwing money at this truck. I did note that others have used alternative fan clutches from Autozone or Kragen (there was a detailed thread on Discoweb), sometimes having to drill out the fan holes to accomodate a 10mm bolt. Has anyone here had success with using one of those fan clutches? Prices seemed to range in the $60 to $80 range vs. $225 from AB.
Thanks in advance. Phil
2000 DII 128k
Hey Phil, I think you had better get use to throwing money at it. It's a LR and they run on money. i thought i had a knocking sound comming from the engine....wrong... it was the sound of a out of control atm machine located under the bonnet. Unless you rebuild about 1/2 the truck and put in a complete drivetrain, even then will probably blow up, it will always need money. Figure about a dollar for every mile you drive and you dont get good gas milage so you might as well think of yourself as it's sugar daddy...
These truck are the the top of the list for overheating and blowing up...weather you have 100,000 or 40,000 miles. They are plain POS ...
You will never win... think of your truck as like Afganistan... no matter how hard you try to fix it, somewhere , sometime, somethings going to blow up. I am thinking of changing my logo on the truck to IED instaed of SE.....
As for your problem. Have you had the radiator checked? For as hot and as fast as these truck can heat up, the radiator in my opinion is not cutting it even new. There is no room for tempeture varation. It like heating a pint of water verses a gallon of water . I would check that. i would also have a pressure test and a block test. You can do yourself for under a $100.00 and you will somewhere to go after that.
Keep at it and let us know, Chris
Last edited by vandev; Jun 18, 2010 at 06:23 PM.
I have to pick up the IR Thermometer $30 at Home Depot. I note that some people have used a Hayden 2991 or HY2991 or the Autozone Torqflo 299302. Anyone have experience with either of these replacements. The Hayden is $60, the Torqflo is $122 and the OEM part, $225 at AB? Phil
Last edited by ljdiscovery; Jun 18, 2010 at 07:15 PM. Reason: edit
Yes you can use a aftermarket brand fan clutch, but you can find LR ones brand new on e-bay for under $100 and it will be a exact fit.
I too am in the market for one and I found on for my DI for $80 with free shipping.
I expect to buy it next week.
My clutch fan has not worked for a year, today while my wife was in the pharmacy my truck was idling with the a/c on and no clutch fan for 20 min and the temp never got above 215*F and it was 90*F outside.
Should the fan be locked up tight? I dont know.
I too am in the market for one and I found on for my DI for $80 with free shipping.
I expect to buy it next week.
My clutch fan has not worked for a year, today while my wife was in the pharmacy my truck was idling with the a/c on and no clutch fan for 20 min and the temp never got above 215*F and it was 90*F outside.
Should the fan be locked up tight? I dont know.
I'm using one of the severe duty clutches on my '95 and a regular duty on my '97. The DII does in fact have a different part number but I've no idea what the difference is. You could always take in your old one and compare to one of the Imperial numbers.
A good clutch doesn't lock up tight, but there is very significant resistance to turning it by hand when hot.
A good clutch doesn't lock up tight, but there is very significant resistance to turning it by hand when hot.
when i use to live in the virgin islands alot of the locals use to drill and drain there fan clutches and bolt them threw so the would not slip at all. If you have a old one you could drill it, bolt it and see if it makes any difference when you are ideling....
Chris
Chris
I took the truck for a quick trip to the store. Got home and tried the poor man's radiator check. I took off the shroud and felt the back of the radiator, between the radiator and the fan. The top third of the radiator was warm, hot. The bottom 2/3rds of the radiator was cool/cold. I think that I may have found the culprit.
recommendations on confirming that the radiator is not functioning up to par?
If I need a new radiator, what are the recommendations. I note that a Silla is available for around $200, Atlantic British has one for $319 and the OEM is around $600. What works and is recommended? Thanks Phil
recommendations on confirming that the radiator is not functioning up to par?
If I need a new radiator, what are the recommendations. I note that a Silla is available for around $200, Atlantic British has one for $319 and the OEM is around $600. What works and is recommended? Thanks Phil


