Oxygen O2 Sensor Bank/Sensor?
#1
Oxygen O2 Sensor Bank/Sensor?
It’s all happening at once here. Now I have a P0141 code - O2 sensor bank 1, sensor 2. I’ve looked for information on exactly which sensor that refers to and it’s not making sense to me. Should I just replace them all? I haven’t replaced any in the 5 years I’ve had this D2 and I don’t know if they all tend to screw up at the same time, especially if someone installed the cheapest parts possible in it a while ago. I read that Walker sensors work well our Rover. If I should just replace one sensor, can anyone tell me which bank 1, sensor 2 is? You can remove them with a regular wrench I imagine? What’s this about using dielectric grease or white lithium grease? I’m not sure what “hinge” refers to in this case.
#2
Bank 1 Sensor 2 is in the exhaust pipe on the drivers side of the truck (U.S., left-hand drive), after or to the rear of the catalytic converter.
It's only function is to monitor the effectiveness of the cat. It has nothing to do with how the engine runs. There's no need to replace any of the other O2 sensors.
Of course it may not be a sensor fault. It may be that the cat has failed and needs to be replaced.
To confirm whether the problem is with the sensor or the cat, swap the two Position 2 sensors. If the fault code then appears for B2 P2 the sensor is the problem. If the fault code stays on Bank 1 you then know the cause is that the catalytic converter has failed and needs to be replaced.
It's only function is to monitor the effectiveness of the cat. It has nothing to do with how the engine runs. There's no need to replace any of the other O2 sensors.
Of course it may not be a sensor fault. It may be that the cat has failed and needs to be replaced.
To confirm whether the problem is with the sensor or the cat, swap the two Position 2 sensors. If the fault code then appears for B2 P2 the sensor is the problem. If the fault code stays on Bank 1 you then know the cause is that the catalytic converter has failed and needs to be replaced.
#3
You can try to use a regular wrench to remove the oxygen sensors, but you probably won't be successful. The heat cycling tends to make them stick in there, which is why you should use anti-seize paste on the threads when installing the new one.
You can buy special O2 sockets at any auto parts store for a few dollars, but it does pay to heat up the pipe surrounding the sensor as well.
Dielectic grease is applied to electrical connectors to stop water getting into them.
You can buy special O2 sockets at any auto parts store for a few dollars, but it does pay to heat up the pipe surrounding the sensor as well.
Dielectic grease is applied to electrical connectors to stop water getting into them.
#4
Thanks for all the help - I think I’ll get the special tool since I need all the help I can get with this. So white lithium grease on the threads and dielectric grease on the sides of the connectors. Do you bother trying to clean them first? Is the wrench size needed going to be standard or different depending on sensor brand? Heat it up with a heat gun rather than running the engine, I’m guessing?
#5
I wouldn't use lithium grease. That will probably burn. Grab one of those packets of anti-seize by the checkout at the auto parts store.
You want to heat the pipe and socket, but not the sensor, if possible. So no, don't heat it by running the engine.
Size is standard. The tools have a cutout that allow you to put them on the sensor but avoid the wire. I find that the flat style works better than the style that looks like a spark plug socket.
You want to heat the pipe and socket, but not the sensor, if possible. So no, don't heat it by running the engine.
Size is standard. The tools have a cutout that allow you to put them on the sensor but avoid the wire. I find that the flat style works better than the style that looks like a spark plug socket.
Last edited by mollusc; 04-25-2021 at 05:37 AM.
#6
Thanks, I hadn't thought about the temperature burning the grease. I couldn't find a definitive answer, but I'm guessing that nickel anti seize is a good option. Fortunately, Walker supplies anti seize that can be applied to the threads before installing - https://www.walkerproducts.com/o2-se...xygen-sensors/
I got a socket to help remove the sensors as well - I think it's the type you meant - the 3/8 drive connects to the side of the socket rather than directly above it. Do you examine the sensors to learn about what the engine is doing?
I got a socket to help remove the sensors as well - I think it's the type you meant - the 3/8 drive connects to the side of the socket rather than directly above it. Do you examine the sensors to learn about what the engine is doing?
#7
I think you got the style that I meant. Even so, it can often be hard to get the old one out. Depending on how much things get mangled, you may need to get a thread chaser to clean up the hole so that they new one will fit well.
It's not going to hurt anything to look at the old sensor when it comes out, but I'm not sure how much it will tell you. Spark plugs are much more in the firing line (pun intended).
It's not going to hurt anything to look at the old sensor when it comes out, but I'm not sure how much it will tell you. Spark plugs are much more in the firing line (pun intended).
#8
Bank 1 Sensor 2 is in the exhaust pipe on the drivers side of the truck (U.S., left-hand drive), after or to the rear of the catalytic converter.
It's only function is to monitor the effectiveness of the cat. It has nothing to do with how the engine runs. There's no need to replace any of the other O2 sensors.
Of course it may not be a sensor fault. It may be that the cat has failed and needs to be replaced.
To confirm whether the problem is with the sensor or the cat, swap the two Position 2 sensors. If the fault code then appears for B2 P2 the sensor is the problem. If the fault code stays on Bank 1 you then know the cause is that the catalytic converter has failed and needs to be replaced.
It's only function is to monitor the effectiveness of the cat. It has nothing to do with how the engine runs. There's no need to replace any of the other O2 sensors.
Of course it may not be a sensor fault. It may be that the cat has failed and needs to be replaced.
To confirm whether the problem is with the sensor or the cat, swap the two Position 2 sensors. If the fault code then appears for B2 P2 the sensor is the problem. If the fault code stays on Bank 1 you then know the cause is that the catalytic converter has failed and needs to be replaced.
Question: So aren't these the same thing, the 02 Sensor Heater upstream and the Lambda Sensor up stream? Seems only the 2 up stream sensors are giving me the code and not the down stream... Probably wouldn't make sense to replace the two down stream sensors also??
In the case above, when you say swap the 2 sensors are you saying swap the 2 sensors from the right bank swapping the to the left bank? Or are you saying swap the 2 left bank sensors, reversing the up and down stream, in order to determine if the Cat is bad or not? Just trying to understand the logic if it then reads right bank (B2) if the wiring used from the left bank (B1)
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#10
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