So I posted a while ago about this but I got alot of other things done on he truck and now I want to handle this. Previous owner threw a cardone MAF on this one and it is still in warranty. So the P0103 is a MAF problem. I found a salvage place to get a mass air flow sensor for 90 bucks and I get 139 back for the cardone one. SHould I go ahead and swap it out and see if it fixes the problem? I just heard the discos hate anything except bosch. I have some rough idles and rpm drops when downshifting to a stop light and then it typically throws it but it only throws the code every 2-3 weeks.

 

Order a oem mass air flow sensor new don't buy used electrical parts of any kind.

 

British Parts of Utah has one of the better deals on our MAF.

 

From the ducting looks like it is a bosch. Just want to show some experts what I got. The actual sensor comes off that plug and lies within the ducting correct? If there is another way to tell please share the knowledge. thanks
Alex

 

yes the sensor comes off.

this is your cheapest option and works great for me

 

re: don't buy used electrical parts of any kind

Depends on the size of your wallet. A used MAF for a D1 is like $30 at the boneyard. A new one is as much as a whole truck. It costs a lot to keep the partz vulturez in my shade tree fed, gotta make cuts where you can.

 

Electrical parts usually have no warranty & no returns. So you could be paying for a bad part
why take the risk?

 

Well, at the salvage yard I frequent (LKQ), they have a 30 day warranty (sometimes that is exchange only), and you get even longer on engines and trannys. The devices are OEM for the most part, not reman. And at 5% of original cost, or less in some cases, I'll roll the dice. But I like tinkering with vehicles; other people have other hobbies and interests. Some people buy every part at the dealer, others use any number of sources from Rock Auto to Atlantic British or Rovers North. An OP yesterday had a $495 for parts plus extra for labor quote for an IACV on a D2. That's an easy choice for me, based on fiscal reality. But someone who has never pulled on some gloves and duked it out with an oil filter might have some pause before jumping in to DIY. But most mechanics, like my pal here, have no more than 10 fingers. I'm not saying the pros are not highy skilled and experienced, and worth their fees. I'm saying that equipped with the tech manuals, even a noobie can make a good effort on most things.

Some of the guys on here have several accountants to help carry their wallets. Others need a way to keep getting to work so they can get that next check, or just keep the job. Pre-owned parts from a previously posh pile of sheet metal are just one of the solutions.

I will agree that new parts will result in the least labor to resolve the situation and the longest MTBF (mean time between failures). With used parts, I have to drive to the yard, pull it myself, then do that same labor again at home. If you make $350 an hour, like my wife's attorney, you could spend that time more wisely. On the other hand, I've learned something at the yard and may not tear up something on my vehicle. And my work is worthless, I've got documented proof...

 

I don't have any bone yards around me that will let you try a electrical part let alone return one. If the ones around you allow that more power to ya. I enjoy tinkering also and its even a gamble to buy a new part from the store but it has a warranty coming from the parts store.

 

yea my junk yards offer warrantys and stupid low prices to begin with. I have bought electrical parts for my D1 and never had a problem. I am trying to avoid that with this one, not to mention there are no D2s in my junk yard yet. I have however ordered 3 used window regulators.