My concern with interference is not with articulation, but with equal compression. It may be a pain, but if you put the truck on a lift and remove both rear springs, lower the truck slowly and see if it hits before the bump stops

 

speed hump is a good test if you go a bit faster than you normally would. hump not bump

 

So who wants the prize for guessing it would hit?

Hit a speed hump at speed and got a little clunk. Not bad but theres some evidence on the axle housing and bar that they kissed.
Thinking of maybe modifying a front track bar by cutting the ends off and welding the tube nuts to that. It has a nice ring gear bump out that would clear everything and then some. Thoughts? other ideas?

 

Well since I called it 40 minutes after your post, I get the prize


But seriously, if you move your chassis mount back you should be fine... hows it ride?

 

You win a PBR on me next time Im in Burli. In the meantime, give yourself a pat on the back

Chassis mount has no room to move back (exhaust in the way). I dont do any crawling with this truck, just a mud/snow monster so I might investigate using some kind of factory bar with a clearance bump out.
It rides as nice as my other 04 with a good watts. Thats good I guess considering its got solid rod ends vs the rubber watts stuff. Im very happy with it otherwise

 

uh, i think i get the prize...that dude wanted you to pull out 1/2 of the suspension and put it on a lift.

 

hahaa the prize is for guessing it'd hit, not easiest diagnostic

Unfortunately, and I don't want to sound like a dick here...but I think you could have moved it if you mounted the axle bracket on the driver side......

 

Figured I would toss a couple pictures in here, since I pretty much just copied the way that you did it!

Worked out really well. I did a couple things differently I think. One being that I tilted the axle side tower back a few degrees (the bracket that welds to radius arm bracket), in order to gain some more clearance around the diff cover. The other thing, is that I only trimmed one of the misalignment spacers for the frame side helm joint. It's necessary to trim them, as the factory frame side bracket isn't quite wide enough for both misalignment spacers to fit. By trimming only one side, it allowed me to offset the track bar slightly within the bracket (not perfectly centered within the bracket) and gain just a bit more clearance around that diff cover. Everything seems to clear fine.

My truck has 2" spacers in the rear, but actual lift height according to the tape measure is only 1" in the rear. Right now, the track bar is actually a little lower on the frame side than it is on the axle side!
However, I've ordered a 3" terrafirma lift kit to replace my apparently worn out suspension. This should put the track bar perfectly level at ride height. Truck drives great with the new track bar, and it got rid of the horrible "clunk" from worn out watts link bushings.


Here are a few pics:









You can see in this next picture how I offset the him joint within the factory frame mount:





And this pic shows track bar clearance around the diff cover. Pic taken from ground level, and looking straight up:






This pic shows the angle of the track bar in relation to the axle. You can see that the frame side is lower than the axle side:







I did have to loosen the bracket that holds the brake line and abs sensor to the frame, and pivot it up out of the way some. Under compression, it was really close to hitting the new axle side mount. May not have to do that part with more lift, but it was an easy fix for this:







Let me know if it's in bad taste to post this kind of stuff in someone else's thread!
Just trying to keep info together in order to maybe help the next person who's looking to do something like this.

For $175 and a little fab time, it was a no brainer to go this route over replacing all of the watts link bushings!

 

That looks great!

 

Nice job!
Im going to live with mine hitting for the time being... Its my DD and its only hit once so far. It would be easier to lift the truck more rather than cut off the brackets and re-weld