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PAS pump 'walkin out'

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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 07:28 PM
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Default PAS pump 'walkin out'

I recently made a new seal on my leaking pas pump and everything was fine. I recently looked under the hood just to check a few things and noticed my belt is pretty torn up so I investigated. The pas pump pulley seems to be walking out and ruining the alignment of the pulleys so its damaging the belt. I grinded down the plate that the pulley bolts on to the pump to make up for the walking out and it moved out further after running it for a while. It doesnt seem to be coming out any further.

I read a few posts on this 'walking out' and just wanted to clarify if this was true or not because when I took apart the pump I could not see how this is possible. Here are some pics... The first is where you can see the extra space that has come out (the shiny part between the pulley). The second is the messed up belt.

Ive thought of several ways to go about fixing the issue without buying a pump but it looks like thats what Im going to have to do... Any Ideas?
 
Attached Thumbnails PAS pump 'walkin out'-walkin-out.jpg   PAS pump 'walkin out'-belt.jpg  
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 07:32 PM
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Originally Posted by thehulk
I recently made a new seal on my leaking pas pump and everything was fine. I recently looked under the hood just to check a few things and noticed my belt is pretty torn up so I investigated. The pas pump pulley seems to be walking out and ruining the alignment of the pulleys so its damaging the belt. I grinded down the plate that the pulley bolts on to the pump to make up for the walking out and it moved out further after running it for a while. It doesnt seem to be coming out any further.

I read a few posts on this 'walking out' and just wanted to clarify if this was true or not because when I took apart the pump I could not see how this is possible. Here are some pics... The first is where you can see the extra space that has come out (the shiny part between the pulley). The second is the messed up belt.

Ive thought of several ways to go about fixing the issue without buying a pump but it looks like thats what Im going to have to do... Any Ideas?

make sure u didnt put the pulley on backwards if you did it will look like the shaft is walking because it will be sticking out further
 
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 07:48 PM
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+1 every time someone reports this the pulley is on backwards. Not to state the obvious but it says front on the front so maybe check.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 07:48 PM
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Yup checked that... I was hoping I put it on backwards so I would just have to turn it around but its on there correctly.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 07:51 PM
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Originally Posted by thehulk
Yup checked that... I was hoping I put it on backwards so I would just have to turn it around but its on there correctly.
well then my freind you will be buying a new pump try to get a used one with low miles from ebay if u can or a new one is 400 large
 
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 07:55 PM
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Used pumps can be had for $70 or so.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 08:03 PM
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$70, at junkyards?
 
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 08:09 PM
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$70 shipped from autosports unlimited with the pulley.
 
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Old Mar 30, 2010 | 08:18 PM
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Looks like they dont have the part any more. Thanks for all the help guys!
 
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Old May 8, 2010 | 10:35 PM
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I had the exact same thing happen to me just this past week. It tore the inner rib off the serpentine belt. I replaced the pump today, and now the pulleys are aligned once again. I still don't know if the entire power steering pump shaft walked forward, or just the triangular flange the pulley bolts to. Weird.

Not a bad job in the driveway. I decided not to remove the fan (knowing what a PITA that is). It is possible without damaging the fan. The 5" stud just above the pump that the aluminum housing slides onto, can be removed from the engine with the housing. Just soak it down with your favorite penetrating spray and double nut it. It can only come out just a little bit before the shoulder hits the back of the housing, then loosen the remaining bolts, slide the housing forward, bring out the stud a little more, and continue this until the stud is free of the engine. Doing it this way, I had at least an inch of clearance between the housing and the fan with the housing pulled as far forward as i needed to remove it.
 
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