I agree that the valve train ticking is probly caused by a worn valve train. And these trucks seem to be prone to worn cam shaft lobes.

So to really fix it you probly should think about a new cam shaft, lifters, and possibly rockers. Then, while the truck is largely disassembled, you should do timing chain, oil pump, water pump, and probly fan clutch.

It's definitely a big job, but the upside is a new camshaft will make it feel like a new truck. You get more power, better throttle response, and possibly even better mileage depending on which cam you pick and how worn out your current cam is.

 

Perhaps worn parts, but not convinced. Ticking only erupts when engine temp is high. Not at idle, not during a ten minute warm up. Also, when running my 20-50, ticking was erratic. If you subscribe to the worn parts theory, then the ticking would be consistent, regardless of engine temp. Just think I've got some dirty insides and tearing apart the engine and replacing parts is beyond my skill set. Also, it is my daily vehicle and if I had a third realiable car, then maybe I would make this disco my project car to learn more about. Anyhow, gonna stick to my guns on this one and replace t-stat. Keep temp low, no more ticking. Not sure I'll through more detergents in the engine, but if I do, it will be gradual and over time. Not sure about frequency; meaning at every oil change.

So, back to some original theories at the onset of this thread....pastey oil. So what's the verdict? Coolant/water leak vs. detergents in oil dislodging gunk in the engine?

A wise man told me to maybe considering putting kerosene in the oil. Why? Convert the pastey stuff back to oil. Any thoughts about this idea?

 

look if you want to clean your motor out go get a couple gallons of cheap walmart oil(tech 2000) fill it up run for ten minutes dump it and do it again.. if you have enough globs in your oil that two of those and then filled back up with rotella doesn't fix it than I think maybe you have another problem

 

I'm pretty sure you are just flushing stuff out.

Definitely don't put kerosene in your oil.

Just keep running Rotella for a few changes and monitor the situation.

And changing the thermo is certainly a good idea. The stock thermo is way too high.

 

IF your coolant level is going down every few weeks and your oil looks brownish and cloudy in the oil catch pan then you have a head gasket issue.

To really tell - put the oil catch pan with the oil in the SUN.
If you see metal flakes - those are the main bearings wearing due to the antifreeze attacking them.

I would add Barr's Leaks to the coolant ASAP to prevent some of the coolant leakage into the oil.

 

Coolant level down, but maybe 4 to 6 oz. every 3 to 4 months. Just haven't carved the time to put in new 180 t-stat, so probably won't add the Barr's Leaks until I complete the coolant change job.

 

" Just think I've got some dirty insides and tearing apart the engine and replacing parts is beyond my skill set." "So what's the verdict? Coolant/water leak vs. detergents in oil dislodging gunk in the engine?"

I already gave you the verdict, but you don't want to hear it; you want to insist that answer is to continue dumping in "liquid cure" in a can. I promise you, that if you continue on that path, that you will, for sure, eventually, learn the truth, the verdict, the hard way, and you will be forced to put in the needed new parts, or more likely, to hire someone to do it for you. The longer the truth, the "verdict," is set aside, the more expensive the repair will be, due to more extensive costly worn parts.