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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 06:51 AM
  #11  
redwhitekat's Avatar
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From: kitchener, canada
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I installed a true pcv valve there is tons of info here on the part numbers
I eliminated the plastic oil separator inside the metal housing on the valve cover and installed a true pcv valve on the intake plug and play
 
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 06:53 AM
  #12  
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From: kitchener, canada
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Fram fv 308
 
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 04:12 PM
  #13  
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An aftermarket PCV valve would be an option in order to replace the plastic spiral, but this solution still draws fluids into the intake, probably even more. It is a valve only to seal the manifold when under vacuum, but does not separate gases from fluids. The OEM oil separator is probably better, because it is supposed to keep more fluids in the crank case (if it's really that efficient is up to debate). In contrast, a PCV catch can prevents both, fluids from getting into the intake and/or back into the crank case.

What I learned in meantime, you need a quality catch can, so cheap ones from ebay might be inefficient or even cause problems, e.g. leaks. There are plenty of videos on this topic on youtube. I am still learning ...
 
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 06:37 PM
  #14  
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Originally Posted by Discorama
An aftermarket PCV valve would be an option in order to replace the plastic spiral, but this solution still draws fluids into the intake, probably even more. It is a valve only to seal the manifold when under vacuum, but does not separate gases from fluids. The OEM oil separator is probably better, because it is supposed to keep more fluids in the crank case (if it's really that efficient is up to debate). In contrast, a PCV catch can prevents both, fluids from getting into the intake and/or back into the crank case.

What I learned in meantime, you need a quality catch can, so cheap ones from ebay might be inefficient or even cause problems, e.g. leaks. There are plenty of videos on this topic on youtube. I am still learning ...
Completely wrong. Factory set up is the main reason LR's have a reputation for leaking oil. Put in a true PCV valve and your Disco will never leak oil again.

Read the wikipedia entry on PCV valves - there is a reason every other car on the planet run them.
 
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 07:57 PM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by Extinct
Put in a true PCV valve and your Disco will never leak oil again.
My problem is not leaking, but I don't want oil, water, whatever from the crankcase getting into the manifold.



 
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 08:40 PM
  #16  
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From: kitchener, canada
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Cars with a pcv valve like the fram mentioned above don't have oil in intake issues why would our discos with this set up
 
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Old Oct 5, 2018 | 09:03 PM
  #17  
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OK, thanks, I will try that out.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2018 | 05:53 AM
  #18  
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From: Pittsburgh, PA, USA
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First thing is to get that little plastic piece out of the passenger side. Mine was packed with gunk and my valve cover kept leaking. I took the plastic part out completely and test drove it for a few miles. NO MORE LEAKS!!! The back pressure must've been so bad. You can replace the plastic gizmo or take it out and use the Fram PVC valve as stated above. Either way it needs to be free flowing.

The PCV system in a Rover is called an orifice PCV system. It works on the concept of the hole in the little tube is precise size for the this particular engine and fuel injection. The FI compensates for the orifice all the time and is programmed into the system. Honda uses the same PCV.

PS... I ended up plugging both of the holes in the intake manifold and connected hoses to both valves cover vents and directed the hoses under the truck. SSHHHH!! Don't tell the environmentalist!! :-)
 
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Old Oct 9, 2018 | 08:27 AM
  #19  
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Check out Best4x4's pcv mod.
Trash the plastic seperator, and thread in an actual ball valve pcv into the upper intake on the other end of the hose.
There is a Fram that works great(forget the part#), myself and several of us have switched to it.
 
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Old Oct 9, 2018 | 09:15 AM
  #20  
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I just did this to my Kalahari as well. On 99-02’s with 4.0L or anyone running earlier 4.0L valve covers the OEM baffle will pull right out (highly suggest spraying it with brake cleaner/throttle body spray before attempting to remove it as the plastic will be extremely brittle), on 03-04 4.6L you can carefully remove the metal stub that contains the baffle. On 99-02’s you’ll have an opening that is basically 100% wide opening, 03-04 will have a smaller hole. Haven’t noticed any issues with the 99-04 setups with the FV308 style PCV.

On my Kalahari I just started seeing my valve covers seeping after the off road event, went to check the OEM baffle and it was completely clogged up. Removed it, installed a spare FV308 and I’m good to go. I was going to change it out like I did on my 99 & 04, but I honestly forgot until I saw the valve covers starting to seep.

P.S. I just ordered 3 KP111’s (same as the FV308), which are high quality “Made in Japan” units for like 7.00 each.

I also noticed my Dorman 620-112 fan rubbed the upper fan shroud some, but I talked to a guy with an OEM 99-02 setup that was at the event and his fan ate thru the top of his OEM shroud during the offroad event! Gonna file down the Dorman fan just a little bit as a CYA, but we were doing some serious jolting off ledges, and down a creek bed up & over hundreds of large rocks.

My 02 did excellent and unlike some people out on the trail my cooling system would max out at 209F, (other folks were overheating) then if I cruised around in 4Lo manual mode 2nd gear the rpm’s would spin the fan just right and she’s cool down to 190F quickly.
 

Last edited by Best4x4; Oct 9, 2018 at 09:47 AM.
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