Sorry, I didnt read carefully. It should when cold. But maybe as the oil thins out it’s shows? Just speculation.

Wouldn’t hurt to drop the pan and have a look under the skirt.

 

[QUOTE=Akdisco11;626091]Davis regarding the pinning, I'll post a few pics below. We installed one pin in each cylinder, not two. We also removed more ancillary stuff to improve access. Once the pan was off, the starter (a real pain) and the manifolds, it only took about six hours to insert the pins.

We sat on milk crates for three hours talking about the process and rechecking the engine before the first hole. After the first one, it went pretty fast.

Thanks for the pics, AKDisco. One more question. How did use a drill stop to set the depth of the hole or just guestimate it?

 

There 's no real way to set the depth of the drilling because you must pass through the steel liners. Once tapped, the stud is set just under the surface by the locking nut. The steel liners were impressively difficult to drill through. The block was like butter.

If you were inquiring about the placement of the hole in relation to vertcal position, we wanted to stay under the stroke of the rings. It's a feel thing. Based on staying below the rings stroke and an accessible flat surface on the outside, there are only a few possibilities regarding where to drill. Once the stud is set, we are convinced that if done properly, the rings can pass with no issues. That said, we stayed low engough that it's not an issue.

In my last discussion with my mechanic, I asked if he wanted to use the 4.0 block for the rebuild because of the pinning? He said, "Those cylinders are never going to move...ever. We may make a different decision with info from the pressure test."

My guy was game for the pinning project, and yes the oil pump and bearings were an unwelcomed extra, but with a broken pump and worn rod bearings, we thought the Disco would rise up from the lower pressure abyss and be healthy. Not so much.

A disappointment for sure, and at the time the truck was a daily driver and had to be replaced. That was the hardest and most expensive part. Living in rural Alaska used vehicle choices are always limited and can be super overpriced. A hundred miles away in Anchorage I missed out on a nice LR3, that my neighbor bought three hours before I arrived. Small town living! The ML350 CDI has been a great driver, but as strong as the Mercedes is, it won't do what the Disco can.

I have nothing to complain about, I paid $4,000 for a beautiful 2003 and drove it for 80,000 miles.

 

New rod and main bearings with a worn crank will result in little change in oil pressure

 

Last night we pulled the 4.6 and dismantled it.

Ticking- was from two bad lifters of which one, was jammed into a walked cam bearing.

The head gasket was just starting to go between the #3 and #5 cylinders. Abran you were correct.

 

Sorry... But now you know.

 

What does it do to the lifter bore after the long time beating on the bearing??

 

Golly, AKdisco, it just keeps getting worse for you, so sorry. I think before I do anything to mine I should drop the pan and look for a walked cam bearing. I don' t want to remove the engine but I may not have a choice. Think I should look for a 99.5-02 RR 4.6 . . .

 

As easy as the engine comes out, I wouldn't replace cam bearings or pin liners with it in the truck.
I'm in the process of doing both, and then some.

 

Consider that apparently flex plates get stress cracks in these, and tick.
$80 for a new one, and the piece of mind knowing if yours is good or bad from being able to see all of it.