Mark gets it all from Turner, and the last time I spoke with him it would neither save time nor money. Just FYI.

I bought EVERYTHING for my build from Turner and it was processed immediately and arrived very quickly. I can't say enough nice things about those guys. My order was less than $2k shipped, and that included liners, pistons, pushrods, timing chain, front cover, all seals/plugs, SAI connectors, all bearings, etc. I then bought the appropriate stud kit from Summit Racing and a new 229 cam & hi-lube lifters from Crower. Looking to get it buttoned-up this weekend!

 

I was under the impression that he also had other scourses here in the state, I could be wrong

 

I think one thing that he does is machine the cam so that it will work with the GEMS or Bosch setup. Of course I've heard his charge for this is very costly. Like $600 for a $200 cam and set of lifters. I met a guy at the Arkansas Rover Society spring rally that was able to get his local machine shop to modify the cam for much less.

 

So does the 229 Cam need to be machined? or is it more or less plug and play with the Bosch?

 

I'll add the disclaimer that I've never done this before

But I'm pretty sure they all need machined for the non-distributor engines.

I think it has to do with cutting the end and drilling holes so that the cam gear can bolt on. And doing so in a way that doesn't change the cam timing.

 

My understanding from PT & Mark was that the 229 cam was plug & play and that the 230 cam required a few thou shaved off the valve guides. That's why I went with the 229 cam, plug & play...

Is there something I need to know before I put all this back together in a few days? I'd hate to destroy what is nearly a $4000 rebuild...

 

I don't know. I'm just spreading rumors and stuff. Maybe the guy at the rally used the other model of cam. Do you have a new timing set? If so you can see if it will attach to your new cam.

 

I already have the top hatted block so the rest is just shopping for the proper goodies to build it up with.
Hey Disco_Fever you mention the 229 cam, is this a Crower cam?
I have been talking with Crower and the cam we have come up with is:
Part Number: 52239 Buick Hydraulic Flat Tappet Camshaft but,the end has to be machined to work with our engines.
Cam specs are:
INT/EXH - Dur @ .050” Lift: 202°/210° RR: 1.6/1.6 Gross Lift: .446”/.451” LSA: 112° RPM: 1500 to 4000 Redline: 4500



I too have been eyeing the Hi-Lube lifters as well from Crower.
We will be doing a full balance of all rotating parts, deburring the block and wanted to use ARP head studs but have been waiting for an answer from ARP about which is the best ones to use as I have heard some studs pulling out of the block during the torquing sequence.
Disco_Fever, which studs did you get from Summit?
May do a bit of cleaning up of the heads as well.

 

My cam is Crower Part Number: 50229. That's supposed to be the one everyone uses, the one Mark from D&D recommends and the one that PT Schram likes too. (PT also likes the 50230 cam, it's a little "hotter", but he says you may have to shave a few thousandths off of the valve guides- something I wasn't interested in bothering with since I primarily want ease and reliability!)

My lifters are Crower Part Number: 66050X3-16.

The head studs are ARP 157-4301, specially made for Rover 3.9-4.6L V8.

 

My "BAD" I put the wrong part number down, it was for a 400 cu block.
The 50230 was the cam that I was enquiring on but did not know about the shaving part. I may go with the 229 myself, have you picked your up yet?
Same lifters and thanks about the ARP info, one less thing to enquire about.
What are you doing about vavle springs? I'm now looking into the 68405-1 from Crower.