As of late my D2 has been throwing me the p1171 and p1174 codes (running lean) and sometimes throws me a p0102 which is Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit low. At first I thought it was the MAF but everything is working fine with that so its come down to a vacuum leak. I have sprayed carb cleaner everywhere and have used propane everywhere and still cannot find anything leaking!!!!! Also have replaced the o2 sensors.
The only place I can think the leak would be coming from would be the intake manifold gasket. Is there a way to check this without taking everything apart? If not can anyone direct me to a good DIY for removing the intake manifold and all the fun stuff that needs to be removed with that?

So far this is what my code scanner is telling me about the fuel trim

shrt ft 1- 10.2%
long ft 1- 19.5%
shrt ft 2- 3.9%
long ft 2- 18.8%
Obviously the engine is trying to over compensate for too much air.

What do I do!?!?!?
Any help on this issue would be much appreciated

 

When using propane the engine fan could be blowing it away first, might need to slip off serpantine belt and test in short periods (don't over heat). A pro Rover tech said that they sometimes obstruct the air intake to make the vac leak whistle louder. You can also attach a vacuum guage to the plenum (use the oil separator line, and clean the oil separator) so you can see very small changes instantly, vs waiting one or two drive cycles for code to return.

The 102 code is for air flow below minimum, new air filter, wet air filter, rag left in filter box, etc. If you decide to embark upon cleaning the MAF, and this should be a last gasp before replacement, because cleaning can damage it; be aware that inside the sensor is a small spot where temp is elecrically heated to 350 degrees above local temp. This happens when key is turned on, the engine does not have to be cranked up yet. So when you spray cleaner made for the purpose, which will feel cold on your fingers, the hot spot ay not like it and fracture. Best to do this when truck has set over night, can of cleaner under the hood (so it is close to same temp), and perhaps this act might leave vehicle with a bad MAF, stranding SWMBO from going to take the offspring to school, etc. In other words, this is a bad thing to try in the parking lot of the auto parts store after driving there to pickup the MAF cleaner.

The RAVE has a through write up procedures on removal of the intake manifold, you'll want to look it over carefully. Many DIY also put the AC compresor and throttle body aside as assemblies.

 

You need a new MAF, common set of codes when they fail.
Do not buy an after market or generic Bosch, buy only a new Bosch with matching part numbers on the barrel.
Might want to go to British Parts of Utah for a good price on that MAF.

 

I as well, have this problem with the same codes.

DiscoMike - is there a way to test for MAF vs. vacuum leak? I've been all over my engine and can't find any leaks, but I am by no means an expert.

Any thoughts on a used MAF? Right now I just need to get the codes to go away to pass emissions here in GA.

Thanks in advance for the help guys/gals.

 

What part of GA? I keep plenty of mass meters for test purposes, how ever, it usually ends up being intake bolts that have backed off.

 

Atlanta.

I'm thinking about pulling a used one, a buddy has a pretty good supply down here.

What would you want for a used one in good order?

I love my truck, but I also don't see the point in throwing money away.

 

The Rave gives all the testing procedures and no, there is nothing wrong with using a good, clean used MAF if it doesn't code.

 

DiscoMike & co - got a nice used MAF for $80 yesterday, and swapped it out - cleared all my codes right up!

Thanks for all the help guys!