Plug & Play trailer wiring harness, now tail lights don't work
#13
The brake light switch is a compound switch, if I remember.
Consisting of two switches.
One part for the ABS.
One part for the actual brake lights.
And, on a D1 there is a mechanical vacuum switch for the cruise.
Not sure if the vacuum switch exists on the D2.
When the truck is off, you may want to pull out a brake lamp and try to put an ohm meter across the middle power pin and the socket ground on X10 scale to see if there is a dead short or not.
You may want to get the ohm meter on X10 and put it against the socket ground where the socket of the bulb grounds and then against a good metal fitting or scrape a small bit off the trailer hitch receiver for a ground point. That should be a dead short.
Could you have fried your brake switch - YES.
If someone put an over amp fuse in for the brake lights - that may have not blown the fuse but blown the weakest link - maybe your brake switch.
Check that the fuse for the brake lights is the proper amp rating.
If you fried the brake lights after connecting to the trailer, then I would advocate the connections to the trailer may be suspect.
I would take it all back apart.
Then use a battery to check that the wires you connect to on the trailer actually do what you think they do.
Going just by colors - is not so smart.
Make sure brake lights light up just brakes and all that.
On am american trailer the brakes and turn signals are the brake light.
On the rover --
Brake light is a distinct bulb.
The turn is a distinct bulb.
Atlantic British may have sold you a gizmo that uses diodes to
conduct the current to the same bulb..
Brake bulb-------|<----- turn signal
+
|
+------|<------brake lamp
This would be a suitable circuit with two diodes.
Consisting of two switches.
One part for the ABS.
One part for the actual brake lights.
And, on a D1 there is a mechanical vacuum switch for the cruise.
Not sure if the vacuum switch exists on the D2.
When the truck is off, you may want to pull out a brake lamp and try to put an ohm meter across the middle power pin and the socket ground on X10 scale to see if there is a dead short or not.
You may want to get the ohm meter on X10 and put it against the socket ground where the socket of the bulb grounds and then against a good metal fitting or scrape a small bit off the trailer hitch receiver for a ground point. That should be a dead short.
Could you have fried your brake switch - YES.
If someone put an over amp fuse in for the brake lights - that may have not blown the fuse but blown the weakest link - maybe your brake switch.
Check that the fuse for the brake lights is the proper amp rating.
If you fried the brake lights after connecting to the trailer, then I would advocate the connections to the trailer may be suspect.
I would take it all back apart.
Then use a battery to check that the wires you connect to on the trailer actually do what you think they do.
Going just by colors - is not so smart.
Make sure brake lights light up just brakes and all that.
On am american trailer the brakes and turn signals are the brake light.
On the rover --
Brake light is a distinct bulb.
The turn is a distinct bulb.
Atlantic British may have sold you a gizmo that uses diodes to
conduct the current to the same bulb..
Brake bulb-------|<----- turn signal
+
|
+------|<------brake lamp
This would be a suitable circuit with two diodes.
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