problems with oil getting to the top
#1
problems with oil getting to the top
of the block. I have done the ATF flush and it didnt come out very dirty at all. AFter filling it back up the valves run nice and quiet, after a week of driving it sonds as though the valves are starving for some oil. If I drain and top it off then it quiets back down and runs perfect. I am wondering of there are any ideas as to cleaning the oil paths more or what others have done to fix theirs. I have not yet installed an oil pressure gauge yet and I know it is something I should do right away. Any help is greaty appreciated. By the way it is a 94' D1 and has 136K on it.
#2
RE: problems with oil getting to the top
are you hearing any ticking? definitely oil pressure test. if not getting to the top of motor, maybe oil pump. you can do the old hearing test, put a broom stick on the tp of valve cover, put other end to your ear, listen, do you hear ticking? there you go
#3
#4
RE: problems with oil getting to the top
I will get that done tomorrow. I thought it could be the pick up tube or the pump. I definately get ticking from the drivers side valve cover area. How do you clean the oil pick up by the way? Is it self explanatory when the pan is off or there an actual procedure?
#5
RE: problems with oil getting to the top
Nah just drop the oil pan (sump) and it's right there, two bolts. I just spent all Saturday afternoon doing mine (yesterday). (95 disco 5spd) Notes:
1.Place jack stands on the chassis not the axle, you will need to let the frontaxle hang down to get clearance to remove the pan.
2:You will also need to removethe end of the steering damper that attaches to the axle, and the tie rod end that goes to the drivers side hub to get clearance.The passenger side tie rodcan endbe left in place, just swingthe rodout of the way.
3. After trying a few different chemicals I found Berrymans B12 to be the best at dissolving sludge & grime in oil pan & pick up tube.
4. You might want to get a new gasket to go on the pick up tube, its up to you? (I did)
5. I also removed the half moon inspection cover at the bottom of the trans (mines a 5spd) right next to the back of the oil pan to have easier access to the back two oil pan bolts, and not round off the heads. I was able to get them off OK, but found it hard to get back on them squarely to tighten them. But this is up to you too.
6. Expect to get very dirty & enjoy!
1.Place jack stands on the chassis not the axle, you will need to let the frontaxle hang down to get clearance to remove the pan.
2:You will also need to removethe end of the steering damper that attaches to the axle, and the tie rod end that goes to the drivers side hub to get clearance.The passenger side tie rodcan endbe left in place, just swingthe rodout of the way.
3. After trying a few different chemicals I found Berrymans B12 to be the best at dissolving sludge & grime in oil pan & pick up tube.
4. You might want to get a new gasket to go on the pick up tube, its up to you? (I did)
5. I also removed the half moon inspection cover at the bottom of the trans (mines a 5spd) right next to the back of the oil pan to have easier access to the back two oil pan bolts, and not round off the heads. I was able to get them off OK, but found it hard to get back on them squarely to tighten them. But this is up to you too.
6. Expect to get very dirty & enjoy!
#6
RE: problems with oil getting to the top
Question for Disco Mike, is there a special metric adaptor needed to attach the oil pressure test guage? If so where canI get it?I have a oil pressure test guage but it looks like all the adaptor fittings are standard size? Do you have any recomendations (type/brand)for a permanent oil pressure guage for in dash? If I put one in I'd like to keep the stock oil light also, can this be done? (Y or T adaptor?)
#7
RE: problems with oil getting to the top
ORIGINAL: handsome rob
of the block. I have done the ATF flush and it didnt come out very dirty at all. AFter filling it back up the valves run nice and quiet, after a week of driving it sonds as though the valves are starving for some oil. If I drain and top it off then it quiets back down and runs perfect. I am wondering of there are any ideas as to cleaning the oil paths more or what others have done to fix theirs. I have not yet installed an oil pressure gauge yet and I know it is something I should do right away. Any help is greaty appreciated. By the way it is a 94' D1 and has 136K on it.
of the block. I have done the ATF flush and it didnt come out very dirty at all. AFter filling it back up the valves run nice and quiet, after a week of driving it sonds as though the valves are starving for some oil. If I drain and top it off then it quiets back down and runs perfect. I am wondering of there are any ideas as to cleaning the oil paths more or what others have done to fix theirs. I have not yet installed an oil pressure gauge yet and I know it is something I should do right away. Any help is greaty appreciated. By the way it is a 94' D1 and has 136K on it.
#8
RE: problems with oil getting to the top
ORIGINAL: mordor110
Question for Disco Mike, is there a special metric adaptor needed to attach the oil pressure test guage? If so where can I get it? I have a oil pressure test guage but it looks like all the adaptor fittings are standard size? Do you have any recomendations (type/brand) for a permanent oil pressure guage for in dash? If I put one in I'd like to keep the stock oil light also, can this be done? (Y or T adaptor?)
Question for Disco Mike, is there a special metric adaptor needed to attach the oil pressure test guage? If so where can I get it? I have a oil pressure test guage but it looks like all the adaptor fittings are standard size? Do you have any recomendations (type/brand) for a permanent oil pressure guage for in dash? If I put one in I'd like to keep the stock oil light also, can this be done? (Y or T adaptor?)
Mike
#9
RE: problems with oil getting to the top
I had the oil pressure teat done and it came back spot on for factory readings. I spoke with the mechanic who said I may have a lifter that is collapsing and that I may need to replace them. They said they will work on it and I should send it to the dealership. Of course I am not going to do that so I will keep playing with it myself.
I changed the oil to a heavier 20W 50 in hopes that it would have some result of oil staying in the lifter but it was worse, and am switching back to a 10W 30 to help it flow better. I will clean the pick up tube and pan today and then see what happens. I may also try the rocker rail as suggested above since I beleive my issue is in a pathway or channel that is the real root of my problem and not a total engine problem.
Thanks for all your help and suggestions.
I changed the oil to a heavier 20W 50 in hopes that it would have some result of oil staying in the lifter but it was worse, and am switching back to a 10W 30 to help it flow better. I will clean the pick up tube and pan today and then see what happens. I may also try the rocker rail as suggested above since I beleive my issue is in a pathway or channel that is the real root of my problem and not a total engine problem.
Thanks for all your help and suggestions.
#10
RE: problems with oil getting to the top
ORIGINAL: handsome rob
I had the oil pressure teat done and it came back spot on for factory readings. I spoke with the mechanic who said I may have a lifter that is collapsing and that I may need to replace them. They said they will work on it and I should send it to the dealership. Of course I am not going to do that so I will keep playing with it myself.
I changed the oil to a heavier 20W 50 in hopes that it would have some result of oil staying in the lifter but it was worse, and am switching back to a 10W 30 to help it flow better. I will clean the pick up tube and pan today and then see what happens. I may also try the rocker rail as suggested above since I beleive my issue is in a pathway or channel that is the real root of my problem and not a total engine problem.
Thanks for all your help and suggestions.
I had the oil pressure teat done and it came back spot on for factory readings. I spoke with the mechanic who said I may have a lifter that is collapsing and that I may need to replace them. They said they will work on it and I should send it to the dealership. Of course I am not going to do that so I will keep playing with it myself.
I changed the oil to a heavier 20W 50 in hopes that it would have some result of oil staying in the lifter but it was worse, and am switching back to a 10W 30 to help it flow better. I will clean the pick up tube and pan today and then see what happens. I may also try the rocker rail as suggested above since I beleive my issue is in a pathway or channel that is the real root of my problem and not a total engine problem.
Thanks for all your help and suggestions.
I used "mega grey RTV" made for imports (Honda/Toyota) on the oil pan, NO cork gasket, which was how it came off. I put on a 2mm (1/8") beadper service manual.
Good luck!