The Rover will do well as it is.
Just don't ever over heat it.
I would change the oil in your differentials.
Check the fluid in your transfer case - as you will be stressing it with 4X4 driving.

Listen to Mike about the Rotella.
Don't put that Mobil 1 into it - way too thin.

Mobil 1 is OK for new cars with tight tolerances in the engine.
You have a used Rover with probably by now a loose engine.

Don't beat on it too much.

I would also change the transmission oil and filter asap.

Congratulations on your new purchase.
I paid almost 4 times what you paid for your truck for one that had bad head gaskets.
You did good sir.

 

I would suggest you purchase an Ultra Gauge for your Land Rover, the temp gauge on the dash is a glorified idiot light and doesn't give you an accurate reading. You can be running at 225 F (a good 20F higher than normal FYI) and it won't budge. The Ultra Gauge (or similar products) gives you a digital readout of the engine temp so you can tell if you are going to cook it or not.

Congratz and welcome

 

No, I've got the terrafirma springs and prosport shocks. I'm still running the stock drive shaft. I don't think you'll fit 35's with just 3" and trimming. Who knows. Maybe?

 

You may want to keep a list of the lights and codes it throws.
To help in future dilemas.
These dam things are more complex than spacecraft.
They are serious about the driveshaft, my tranny was replaced
before I got it because of it. Guess you are lifting so it's going anyways.

 

Got links and or part numbers for what you are running? I want to do that.

 

Lucky8 Llc. - Take the road less traveled...

I did add extended brake lines, that I had purchased a while back.

Rovers North - The Source for Classic Land Rover Parts - STAINLESS BRAKE FLEX LINE SET DISCOVERY II +4"

I plan on making spacers for the front crossmember and maybe looking into extensions for the ABS sensors before I take it off road. Those things look a little tight with the lift. Around town it seems ok so far.

 

Thanks jafir

I got around to registering the Rover and I've been driving it around. It seems to leak coolant. I've had to add to it. It was low on oil and needs an oil change.

It is pretty sweet, but I don't think I am going to keep it. I'm afraid it is going to be a big money pit. I think I'm going to trade it for a Cadillac or a Lincoln or something like that.

 

It may burn coolant/leak oil... head gaskets eh?

 

Yes, it is going to be a big money pit. Especially since it was $600, I doubt its been taken care of. You can do a 3" lift, but if you are going to be doing any offroad driving, you will also need brake line extensions and ABS extensions.

These trucks blow headgaskets regularly, they are heavy and underpowered using a very old engine design. Adding stress to an already rather high miliage version is just going to make things fail all the more. I don't know of anyone who happily keeps a junker disco as an offroad toy, get an 80's jeep, samurai, duece or similiar, you can run those into the ground. LR's need to be kept in good or better shape to expect any type of use, they make great primary offroaders, but the have to be brought back to standards and into shape beforehand.

The front driveshaft, if it is stock, should be inspected asap. They didn't come with greaseabel ujoints from factory, and dry out, begin to sieze, and fail more often then not according to the boards, in glorious fashion, possibly taking the transfercase and tranny with it... and hope you arent on the highway when it happens.

The diffs are good for stock use, but heavy tires and a heavy load will add all the more to the problem. I run 285's on stock 16 alum rims, and it took alot of trimming to stop the rubbing, and thats just on street use, i still get random rubs at wierd angles negotiating simple ruts sometimes. Around town youll have to stick with 3rd on the tranny, keeping it in D is next to useless, especially while trying to merge... it sucks the life out of them, theres no power. So offroad, you will probably be shifting manually between 1+2 or using low on the transfercase just to keep her moving, unless you put in 4.10's, and if you are doing thta route, you might as well throw in HD axles and lockers, so there the price jumps another $2500 in parts before labor.

i dont know what youd like from it, but if you are looking to do things cheaply, id patch up the motor as best i can for leaks (oil leaks are notorious from behind the valve covers) and at the least ditch the coolant for synthetic or conventional... and address the driveshaft issue. from there i'd trim up the fenders and keep stock height and just put on aggressive tread tires, these are more then capable at stock height, youd be surprised. I went with tall tires and big lift mostly for show and clearance for snow, beach and wading on streets and dirt roads so the drawbacks dont really bother me... i dont hit trails, and if i do ill have to be carefull about the high center of gravity and be mindfull that my diffs and axles are stock and be easy on the rough climbs.

 

That's why I went with 255/85R16. I haven't had to trim anything, not even adjust the steering stops, though I do have an aftermarket front bumper. I bet if I go off-road I'll snag the plastic rocker molding with the front tires, but if I do, that's a good excuse to get some sliders.