Just bought a 2004 discovery SE7, has 126k miles and got it for only $4100. The seller told me it needs power steering and that there also might be an oil leak, since oil level goes down from oil change to oil change. The car when turned on has a continues whine, which gets worse/louder/changes character, when you turn the steering. The noise does not go away, steering is still easy to turn. Power steering fluid level is below the minimal mark. Some type of leak every where underneath. Took the engine cover underneath, which wasn't easy, and the fan cover off, the steering geer box and the bottom of the power steering pump and oil filter are wet. used some degreaser and will take it for a power wash tomorrow to find out where the leak is. there also seem to be a leak at the transfer case plate, same as mine 96 DI. In addition to that when cold there is a very slight jerking from 1st to second gear, my 96 DI (problem child) had the same jerking but much worse. He did have the head gasket, oil pan gasket, some type of timing belt gasket changed in 2010, when the car had 110k miles >4k job. I have a few questions if some body could help.

1. What type of power steering fluid do I need to buy?
2. Could it still be just the PAS Pump gasket or hose leak or is the pump gone, since the noise is continous?
3. Should I worry about the slight jerking from 1st to second gear or this is normal?
4. I know disco's are teritorial, should I worry about the leak from transfer case plate and possible engine leak? I did not see anything major, I thing the leak is likely all power steering fluid but will see
5. I changed the power steering pump on my 96 myself, hoses were not coming of and took for ever but other wise not too bad, is this one about the same dificulty level or harder and I should take it to a mechanik?
6. Can I use high mileage synthetic oil despite the age and mileage of the car?
Too many questions, I know. But answer to any question will be greatly appreciated.
Regards,
Hamid

 

1. Many on the forums recommend any synthetic power steering fluid.
2. In my opinion it would be any of those. I've tackled a PS leak before. My gasket failed and I lost all power steering. I went to autozone and made my own gasket out of universal gasket material, no issues since. But it could also be a hose. If the return hose is bad(the one with mesh on it) that can also be replaced with a cut to fit hose from autozone as well. All you would need is a spring to bend the hose in the shape you want. I saved $60 doing this.

3. I would definitely not overlook it. You may want to change your trans fluid and see if you get an improvement. I don't know all that much about transmissions so keep checking the thread for more replies.

4.Trasfer case is quite easy to check. Just open up the fill plug, and dip your finger in there(not hot obviously). If the majority of your finger is wet you should be okay. The transfer cases leak all the time. The inspection plate can be a culprit all though the o ring can also leak. The inspection plate is an easy fix that you can reseal with RTV or make your own gasket. If your t-case fluid hasn't been changed. I would suggest you drain it, reseal your inspection plate and then put in conventional 85-140. That way you are upgrading your wear protecion with a thicker weight and fresh oil. Plus if your t-case still leaks, then at least you didn't waste a fortune on synethic fluid. If your leak stops then you'll want to change your fluid out again in about a years time at the longest just as a precaution. Then you can switch to synthetic or keep changing dino lube. You can also try white sheppard stop leak. (You know the real expensive stop leak) Many here have had good success with it in the t-case.

5. It's not so bad, just messy and the pump has a tight fit so that can be a pain.

6. You're going to want to use a heavier weight oil. Some people use synthetics, some don't. These engines are based on old technology, and most synthetics are probably better suited for precise modern engines. Most people here use Rotella Shell 15-40 conventional, or rotella 5w-40. Those two are really popular on the forums and it's what I run. 15w-40 is a deisel rated oil that contains zinc and can do a better job of keeping your engine clean.

 

Thank you for the quick reply and great info. Any idea what type/size/length of a hose should I get from AutoZone. I don't know what that "spring thing" is. I also read here that I should have my engine flushed, I have no idea how to accomplish this, I do know about transmission flash and I am debating if I should flash it or drain it.
Regards

 

Spring thing is a wound spring that slips over the metal tubing being bent to keep the tube wall from collapse during the bending process. Usually come in a kit of several sizes.

IMHO you would want to change fluid and filter in tranny, by now this should have been done multiple times in the life of the truck. May certainly impact shifting.

Engine flush only an issue with lots of sludge (you have not stated any evidence of severe sludge), just change to a good diesel rated oil and new filter, and perhaps maintain a shorter drain interval for the first two oil changes. Rent/borrow an oil psi gauge from auto parts store, test your oil pressure (above 10 at idle cold; 50 @ 2000 rpm warmed up). Not all cracked oil pumps make a tick, but they can turn off the oil light - just barely.

You can use syn, and it may quiet somewhat the tranny, transfer case, and diffs. 5W40 Rotella for engine does very well in even cooler climates. Because we have no factory oil gauge, people just know that the light goes out. It goes out quicker in cold weather with the 5W40.

While you are doing all this, if it appears that some services were missed, flush and refill cooling system with green, not orange coolant. Want to remove any trace of Dexcool.

 

Just power washed the engine and underneath the car and few minutes after restarting the Service engine soon light came up, probably from water getting some where. I hope it just needs reset.

I tried the low range gearing and diff lock, which are working but in low range without diff lock the neutral light was flashing even the diff was clearly not in neutral because I was able to move the car, I don't know why.

The transfer plate didn't get washed properly still some oil on it. It also has 2 large screws sticking out with bolt over them in 2 positions, I guess some body must have broken those screws at some point. It looks like they used studs, I hope the leak is not related to this.

I drove it for about 15 miles took it also on the high way and drove up to 90 miles per hour and when home nothing is leaking, the hose on the botom was slightly wet and it might be the culprit.

Before power wash, I turned the steering side to side while the front was raised and the ignition off, to see if there was any air in the system, I did notice some minimal foam but couldn't look at it at the time of turning, since it was a 1 man operation.
I than put a bottle of Lukas and also bled the system using the bleed screw , with help of my wife, to make sure the noise was not caused by air, no luck. Noise is still there continously, but doesn't get worse until steering is in extreme lock position. Previously there was noticible change while moving the steering wheel, I am not sure if no change in noise was related to the front of the car being lifted and no pressure on power steering. The noise still gets worse with rising engine RPM.
I have few more questions

1. since the power steering noise does not go away even after adding lukas, bleeding the system and toping it off, does this mean the power steering pump is gone? even if the initial leak might have been related to a leaky hose?

2. IF I don't see any other leak other than the hose , should I attempt to replace the hose first and completely drain the system see if it will do the job, or should I just go ahead and order the power steering pump?

3. I also noticed that in addition to the first geer being slightly raugh when engine is cold that when the transmission changes from third to 4th gear, the engine RPM drops in 2 steps not one, it takes less than a second but there is an initial slight drop and than further drop in RPM. The transmission other wise seems to be shifting very smmoth actually. Any body could tell me if this 2 stage drop in RPM from 3ed to 4th gear is normal?

4. I am thinking of flushing the transmission and than draing the oil again and changing the filter to get rid of all the old oil, is this a good idea or waste of time and money?

5. The manual states a much higher PSI for rear wheels, I don't know why, even though most of the weight is up front.

6. I only found synthetic gear oil 75-145, is this ok or should i look for 90-140 as suggested earlier.

Again too many question but all the help and answers are appreciated in advance. This forum is a treasure of info and great place with great people.
Thanks

 

3. The electronic tranny ECU store shift points and adapts them slightly. It also enegrizes a solenoid to lock up torque converter in high gear, which is probably related to that extra shift you feel.

4. Good idea, as draining won't get what is in torque converter. There are also shops that will do this for you with a power device.

5. Higher rear PSI is probably related to trailer towing capacity.

6. What you found will be fine. Pay particular attention to leaks around the inspection plate on the transfer case. The bolts go all the way through the rim of the opening and tips are inside the area filled with oil. Drain bolt has small magnetic tip.

re: This forum is a treasure of info and great place with great people.


Because of members like you. Thanks for a complete post.

 

First, you bought an 04, which by the price, was neglected and will need a lot of work to get back into shape. That being said, first inspect the front drive shaft, make sure there is 1 grease fitting on each of the 3 U-joints, if not rebuild or replace it "FIRST" before it fails and takes out your tranny.
Second, read my major service at the top of this section and do it all, also if you still have the grey factory plug wires replace them with 8 mm silicone wires, then start tackling the other issues.

 

Thanks alot for your reply
I was ictually feeling guilty by posting such long post, but thanks alot.

 

It certainly looks like it has been neglected. I read your post about high mileage service multiple times and I am planning on doing all of that one by one. I still don't know how to flush the engine. Today I also noticed a light ticking noise, which was likely masked by the loud power steering noise.
And the other discovery was that the power steering pump was leaking from the gasket. I will order a power steering pump today, because getting it in and out is alot of work, and the gasket fix might not fix it.
You recommended additives, Should i get white shepperd for trany engine and cooling system as precaution and should I add Lukas or white shepperd to power steering even if i replace it with a new pump?

Regards,
Hamid

 

Few comments and questions are in the quote, which didn't come right, could you please take a look at the previous reply.
Thank