Just FYI looks like the same company makes this version which works more like modern push button cars

https://www.amazon.com/EASYGUARD-EC003-Passive-Keyless-Universal/dp/B00IF1N314/ref=rtpb_6?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00IF1N314&pd_rd _r=b1df40ef-4d9a-4f41-8ca5-95e8b2a9a7e3&pd_rd_w=djvlV&pd_rd_wg=abFIM&pf_rd_p= 2782d4e7-729b-42ef-89c2-ba31da707602&pf_rd_r=QPV2EV8YZQ20GJS7VWPA&psc=1&re fRID=QB51ZP4H5C1D60S2489E

 

Good find 👍

 

I have a push start from an extra s2000 already by chance, Thank You so much for this idea!

 

This is what I want to do, except with the newer style key fob. I think those would provide more room. I suspect out of the little purple case, the RF-ID chip would be quite small and fit.

 

This kit says a few meter range, instead of inches...... worth looking into other options perhaps. That 1-2 inch range thing is otherwise a bit of a turn-off for me.

The range sensing lock/unlock feature might be useful and I like the included FOB.

I wonder how much of a pain this would be to somehow include a "remote start" system into. I'd want that same FOB shown in the photo to also run the remote start function..... not sure if that'd be possible, say by. Thoughts? I see a few posts down on this thread, the topic is covered, though I'm confused, "we have a transponder key"???? Since when, I only have brass keys to my Rover currently.

 

okay, i'm in the middle of doing this install. everything was going fine until i got to the brake signal wiring.
i have a 1999 and a 2003 truck. on both of them there are TWO green wires going to the brake signal switch, each with a different coloured stripe on them and they're both the same thickness. both of the green+colour wires are thicker than the third wire, but it is NOT obvious which one is the signal wire.

 

so to follow up...

there are three wires on the brake pedal switch, as i noted above. two are thick and one is thin. according to the d2 electrical library, the orange-green wire is the incoming signal, and will always be "live." splicing into that wire will presumably allow the switch to be pressed without stepping on the brake. the thick green-purple wire is "downstream" from the switch, so this is the one to hook into if you want the system to function correctly.

taking out the lock mechanism entirely is extremely simple. you don't have to do anything with the unused connectors from the old setup, and having the barrel gone means there's plenty of room to stow them.
i taped the signal coil into the lower half of the steering column surround. makes it very simple to wave the rfid tag past it to wake up the system (and you don't have to mess with the central console), and it's easy to drop the wires into the fusebox area.

also, the system has a built-in override in case you lose the rfid fob.

 

I put this on my 2007 LR3 and it works pretty well. Only issue is the hazard light wire. it is a pulse and not a constant, so when you trip the alarm the hazards come on and stay on. I diconnected as it isn't a big deal for me. Other weird thing is is if you leave it on and leave, then come back without the FOB you can't turn it off. some kind of firmware bug I guess. I made a kill switch on the ignition wire in case of emergency.

 

I ended up removing this system completely. There's no signal to the unit telling it that the engine has started, so it only ever sends a brief pulse to the starter. When the weather gets a bit cool, it can be a real nightmare getting the engine to start in multiple fraction-second bursts. Apparently the system also has a nasty habit of lasting for about a year and then dying completely, without warning, leaving you completely stranded.

 

Thanks for the update. This is disappointing. I thought the idea was fabulous, as I wrote a year and a half ago, and hats off to jdbayer, whose original writeup and pics were done very well. Perhaps one of us will come upon a kit from a different source that will overcome the problems of this one.