2003 Discovery getting HT leads, spark plugs and valve cover gaskets.


I have the upper manifold gasket so that I can take that off and make everything easier.


1. What is the best penetrating/lubricating spray for removing the old spark plugs? What should I use on the threads when inserting the new ones?


2. what is the size and type of socket needed to remove the VC screws? Last I checked, I didn't have anything to properly fit it. I plan to replace them with something standard.


3. does the AC compressor need to be removed for the driver-side VC gasket replacement?


4. the RAVE instructs drainage of coolant on RH bank for coolant rail removal. Also removal of the fuel injector rail and some other stuff. Is that really necessary or can I work around this stuff without disconnecting it all? Should I be searching for replacement O-rings in this department?


5. socket and wrench sizes necessary for the job? I'm thinking the SAI union nuts would be the ones to worry about. penetrating spray and proper wrench size? what is it? I would like to avoid breaking, stripping and what have you, keeping everything as it should be so I won't be shopping for more unnecessary parts and driving this thing back home and to work on Monday.


6. any other tips or suggestions to make this as painless as possible. LR didn't do me any favors with the way this thing is set up and looks like a 10-hour job for what would take about 2 hours on a 2003 chevy p/u.


it looks like:
a) air intake hose removal
b) whatever SAI stuff: pipes, brackets
c) throttle components
d) coil-packs screws
e) 6 plenum bolts, scootch it up a bit for access to BH
f) possible AC compressor removal for LH VC
g) whatever I need to do on the passenger side for RH VC gasket
this is where I need more info
h) replace VC gaskets.
i) replace DS HT leads and plugs. button that side down
j) replace PS HT leads and plugs. button that side down
k) tighten auxillary items back down
l) replace upper intake manifold gasket. tighten bolts
m) tighten coil packs back down
n) fasten SAI components
o) throttle assembly, breather tube.


what did i leave out. sheesh

 

There's an AB guide on youtube that's pretty accurate. I did the gaskets about a month ago – here's what it was like for me, though I don't have SAI: Imgur: The most awesome images on the Internet

I'd remove the A/C compressor. I'm not sure if you'd have clearance for the intake, and the throttle cables are bolted to the intake behind the compressor.

The valve cover bolts are terrible. You need a 1/4"-drive 12-point 8mm socket for them, which isn't necessarily that easy to find. You could also use a 3/8" socket, but it will need to have a long and very narrow throat to reach the bolt heads. I've heard about people replacing them with other hardware, but I opted to get new LR bolts because they're not that expensive, and once you have the proper tools to remove and install them, might as well.

You won't need penetrating spray on the valve cover bolts. The torque spec on them is absurdly low.

You definitely don't need to remove the fuel injector rail. Does the RAVE say that? It's not in the way at all.

My only tip is to have some small nuts on hand (6mm) to use as an improvised extraction tool to take the stud out of the passenger's side of the intake manifold. It needs to come out for the manifold to come off if you don't want to tap into the cooling system. You run one bolt on and tighten another up against it snugly, then wrench off the inner bolt and that stud should come out.

Another small tip is to beware of potential difficulties with the fan clutch. Mine was a bitch to get off even with the 36mm fan wrench. I didn't have the special tool that holds the bolts to make it easy to spin off, so I had to whack it really hard with a heavy hammer to get it off.

I've heard the SAI nuts are rough going, but there may be a way to do it without disturbing them.

 

Adding to Bayard said, I always put a dab of antiseize on my new plugs and it helps to have a telescoping magnet to grab the front and back intake bolts and the bolts that hold the coils. You can also use the magnet to start them if you have the hands of a surgeon.

 

I did the fan, belt, AC comp and all that no prob.
I found the 12-point, 8mm and loosened one VC bolt to make sure i was good there. I'm going to the store to get the VC gaskets and anti-seize. come back and get set up to pull the SAI junk, coil pack and intake plenum...


then I should finally be getting to the point where I can start getting work done. I will check back with you guys at the point and see if anyone else has offered up any advice or criticism. thanks people.


I would like to note that a 1-1/16 crows foot wrench is on the shopping list. I don't really know how to get around that for the union nuts but I'm not going to jerk around and screw those up. too much work as it is.

 

I was asking Charlie which way this gasket goes, and he said he hasn't had one like it. Fel-Pro with a blue raised surface outlining the hole cutouts on one side only. i was thinking the painted-side up. Can someone confirm?

 

Looking at that picture I'm positive that you are looking at the top and the right side goes towards the front of the engine. The two largest holes--the one farthest right and first one on the bottom left--go over posts that hold it in place while you set the upper intake down. The posts also fit larger holes on the bottom of the lower intake, so if you are careful it all goes together like butter.

One of those holes may not be used. My engine originally had a long, maybe six inch stud that went all the way through the upper intake and through a hole in the valley of the upper intake. I don't know what happened to it but my replacement engine and another one I bought and ruined didn't have the long post. It would just for alignment purposes. And I see your gasket has a hole for it.