quick O2 question
#1
Join Date: May 2009
Location: North Carolina Coast
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quick O2 question
I'm looking for O2 sensors it seems the universal ones are cheaper but there are several different types 4, 3, 2, 1 wire, heated, nonheated what do I need? i need to know so I can get them ordered befor I do the headgaskets, and cats, so everything will come off one time and all back on. thanks
#2
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Colorado Springs, CO
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We don't recommend buying the universal ones. Stick to www.atlanticbritish.com. I believe they are having a sale.
#3
I got a set of Bosch at O-Reilly (they price matched Autozone which were $100 less), but were actually made by NTK who I believe are OEM.
I think I paid about $130 each, which is a lot, but I needed them that day.
$99 at AB, not on sale. It's a decent price, but if you shop you can probably find them cheaper.
I think I paid about $130 each, which is a lot, but I needed them that day.
$99 at AB, not on sale. It's a decent price, but if you shop you can probably find them cheaper.
#4
You have heated O2's, as for the number of wires...you will have to go and look.
I used a universal O2 on my wifes Volvo, what makes them universal is that there is no plug, you have to cut yours off of your old on and then use their kit to install the old plug onto your new O2.
Worked great.
Bought it at Advance Auto for $90 compared to $190 for the exact fit one.
I used a universal O2 on my wifes Volvo, what makes them universal is that there is no plug, you have to cut yours off of your old on and then use their kit to install the old plug onto your new O2.
Worked great.
Bought it at Advance Auto for $90 compared to $190 for the exact fit one.
#6
Join Date: May 2009
Location: North Carolina Coast
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thanks, so these should work? http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sk...%26+Drivetrain , assuming I have 3 wire O2's
#8
Yes, the universals will work. Like Spike said, you have to splice the connector from the old sensor unto the new sensor. You can get the universals for the rovers on Ebay for under $25 apiece, shipped.
A couple of things to remember, make sure you have a solid crimp at the splice.
If you still get a service light after changing, and clearing the stored codes, the length of the new sensor tip may be too long and reading outside the primary exhaust stream. Some of the universals will have a spacer wire ring, or washer to help with this. Compare the old with the new, if they look the same length, should be no problem.
Not sure about your '94, but I believe the '96 and up are 4 wire o2's. 4 wire universals typically fitting a rover are black, white, white, & gray; or, purple, brown, brown, & tan. The black or purple, is the signal wire, the two whites, or browns are the heating circuit. One of the two is for 12v power, and the other is ground/earth (no polarity, does not matter which wire you use for 12v or ground/earth). The gray, or tan wire is output ground (from the ECU).
Don't know about the D1's, but on a D2, the 4 wires on the ECU side of the sensor connector are 3 striped wires and one solid wire. The one solid color wire is the signal wire, the brown /w pink is the 12v power, the red /w black is the ground, the last striped wire is output ground.
If you splice, the heat shrink will look\work better if you stagger the splices (cut the second wire one inch (or little longer) down from the first, cut the next one inch further, so on)
You will need a 22mm or 7/8 inch wrench for the sensor.
A couple of things to remember, make sure you have a solid crimp at the splice.
If you still get a service light after changing, and clearing the stored codes, the length of the new sensor tip may be too long and reading outside the primary exhaust stream. Some of the universals will have a spacer wire ring, or washer to help with this. Compare the old with the new, if they look the same length, should be no problem.
Not sure about your '94, but I believe the '96 and up are 4 wire o2's. 4 wire universals typically fitting a rover are black, white, white, & gray; or, purple, brown, brown, & tan. The black or purple, is the signal wire, the two whites, or browns are the heating circuit. One of the two is for 12v power, and the other is ground/earth (no polarity, does not matter which wire you use for 12v or ground/earth). The gray, or tan wire is output ground (from the ECU).
Don't know about the D1's, but on a D2, the 4 wires on the ECU side of the sensor connector are 3 striped wires and one solid wire. The one solid color wire is the signal wire, the brown /w pink is the 12v power, the red /w black is the ground, the last striped wire is output ground.
If you splice, the heat shrink will look\work better if you stagger the splices (cut the second wire one inch (or little longer) down from the first, cut the next one inch further, so on)
You will need a 22mm or 7/8 inch wrench for the sensor.
#9
Join Date: May 2009
Location: North Carolina Coast
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first off no one buy the o2s from the link I posted, second I'm pissed, I bought the sensors from autopartswarehouse and they don't fit the truck. The threads are much bigger, so I applied for a return number and they want to charge me nearly $18 to restock an item they have listed as fitting my truck, but it dosen't. they say its listed as universal so it may need to be modified to fit. Not only that but I have to pay to ship it back. Does anyone think this is a load of crap!
#10